The right wines from the Rhone

FRENCH WINEMAKER Laure Colombo of the firm Jean-Luc Colombo treated Thai devotees to some lovely reds and whites last week. Among them were tantalising Syrah, Grenache and Cornas wines from the Rhone Valley that were paired with a sumptuous lunch prepared by chef Bernard Vaussion at the Mandarin Oriental Bangkok restaurant Le Normandie.
“Our wines are all organic,” Colombo told us. She’s the daughter of Jean-Luc, founder of the vineyard. “There is absolutely no irrigation. The philosophy is to grow fruit that has experienced a little stress to produce something with character and personality at the end of the day.
“Viticultural policy is very much about sustainability and harmony, with respect for nature and the environment,” she added. “I know it’s becoming a trend now that many vineyards start to adopt this idea to go organic. I hope it won’t be just a trend and that we can help preserve the ground where we produce our fruit so it lasts forever.”
Founded only in 1994 – a baby among Old World wines – Vins Jean-Luc Colombo has made a name for itself as one of France’s most creative wineries, exporting to more than 50 countries. Another aspect that’s refreshing and unique is that the wines are both edgy in taste and yet surprisingly food-friendly, while showing prominent flair in complexity and richness.
Lunch started with savoury crabmeat salad served with green apple and fennel grown in the south of France. This was paired with Les Pines Couches Rose, which was crisp and complex with a refreshing hint of red fruit and fennel.
Second on the table was scallop and truffle served with barley risotto, which went wonderfully with Le Abeilles – Cotes du Rhone Blanc. Comprised of 80 per cent Clairette and 20 per cent Roussanne, the young wine was intensely floral to the nose, with an aromatic lemony feel in the mouth that helped abate the richness with the scallop and creamy risotto. It would be a great aperitif on its own, too.
Next up was velvety chestnut cream soup and truffle served with seductive and meaty Les Abeilles – Cotes du Rhone Rouge or fresh and balanced Les Collines de Laure Syrah, which is a blend from young vines on the Northern Rhone. Both are vibrant, cheerful and pleasantly light reds that would go well with cured meats, pork, tuna and even young cheese.
The main course – succulent loin of lamb and rosemary sauce – was also paired with two reds. One was Terres Brulees Cornas Syrah 2006 with its ruby red hue. Made of 100 per cent Syrah from 40-year-old vines, it’s packed with the aromas of ripe fruit, blackcurrant and liquorice – a great match for hearty red meat and herbaceous sauces.
The other interesting red was Les Ruchets Cornas Syrah, whose grapes come from 90-year-old vines. The “soul of the Domaine” from the first Colombo vineyard is a deep, dark red with an elegant, enticing nose that’s both fruity and floral.
You also get a mouthful of black fruit, spices and sweet vanilla.
Cornas wines from Jean-Luc Colombo are praised for their elegance, complexity and balanced minerals. They earned “Best Appellation of the Rhone Valley” in 2005 in the Revue de Vin de France.

Learn more about Jean-Luc Colombo wines at www.VinsColombo.fr/uk.