Sorted out in Siem Reap

FUNNY THING ABOUT magnificent Khmer temples of ancient Angkor: They don’t stay open all night. But Cambodia’s primary tourist attraction can count on the neighbouring town of Siem Reap to provide the nocturnal diversions for the multitudes of visitors who pour in from around the world.
It’s a “temples by day and drinking cheap beer by night” kind of trip for many travellers who brave the humidity of the Angkor ruins by day, building up a ferocious thirst. Back among their hotels and hostels in Siem Reap they now have a far wider selection of watering holes on Pub Street.
It used to be just a few basic bars and an even more basic choice of locally brewed beer, but there are some new and noted additions now. It might come as a shock that some of them are even more sophisticated than the ones in Bangkok that clubbers praise so much.
And, if you think Khao San Road is the world’s best backpacker street, think again.
In the late 1990s the lonely and abbreviated Pub Street – it’s official name is Street 8, but that’s awfully bureaucratic – had exactly one club with a daft name, Angkor What? with a question mark, and a few made-for-tourists restaurants serving Khmer, Italian and Vietnamese dishes.
The Pub Street of today, however, is not only packed with places offering eclectic international cuisine but also pubs and bars of different vibes and styles stretched out end to end.
While Pub Street itself has the dance clubs with their booming electronic music – like Angkor What? and the Temple Bar – it’s the alleys along the way that offer a much more relaxed ambience.
Break away from the cranked-up music and rowdy chaos and enter the tucked-away Miss Wong Cocktail Bar. It’s a vibrantly red, 1930s-Shanghai-style lounge with an alluringly glamorous, feminine touch, making it a top spot for pre- or post-dinner drinks.
And, drinks-wise, they have quite a long list of signature cocktails priced at US$4.50 to $5 (Bt147 to Bt164), the buck being the coin of the realm in Siem Reap.
It’s quite pricey for Cambodia (and there’s no happy hour!), but the drinks are made with quality spirits, some infused on the premises, professionally presented, and delicious, so it’s worth it.
Miss Wong isn’t ideal for people-watching, but you won’t care because the bar itself is so pretty and there are a lot of details to soak in. Check out www.MissWong.net.
Close by, in another tucked-away lane, is Asana Old Wooden House, which looks like someone hauled a rustic provincial residence out of a rice paddy and parked it here. Airy, simple, yet charming, the bar is indeed a restored house that was supposedly one of the last ones left in the area.
There are low tables and chairs on the balcony and under the house, and in the lounge upstairs “rice sacks” filled with fluff serves as seats. They play nice soothing music and serve decent drinks. Beer starts at $2 and sumptuous cocktails at $4. Have a look at www.Asana-Cambodia.com.
If you like the mood quiet plus a chance to observe the busy street, Linga is a prime option. It’s just a step away off Pub Street, close enough to feel the vibe and far enough to keep it relaxing.
Linga is contemporary and sleek, with comfy seating inside and out, and the bar is packed with almost anything you could wish for. It is one of the very few gay-managed bars in Siem Reap, and probably the only place you get a relatively professional drag show on Friday and Saturday nights, for which there is no extra charge. Find out more at http://LingaBar.com.
You’ve probably had enough to drink at this point and want something to do that’s a bit more upbeat and crazy. We recommend Charlie’s, right next to Linga, for good-value drinks, retro vibes and madness of the backpacker variety.
Open-air Charlie’s is jammed with nostalgic memorabilia and feels like a slice of America. The serving bar has a lofty, industrial flair, while outside is comfy, 1950s-style dinner seating with views of the street. On the speakers are classic rock and other timeless tunes, along with current hits and even techy, electronic airs. A local draught costs half a buck and house spirits as cheap as $1. The most expensive suds on the menu are German Hofbrau Munchen for $4. It’s on Facebook as “Charlies.SiemReap”.
The places on Pub Street and its alleys are quite clean, which might come as a bit of a surprise, and we particularly like the hearty, warm service. The waiters pretty much leave you alone and don’t rush you to order another round like they often do in Bangkok, nor loiter around for tips. Smokers can puff away anywhere – most of the bars are open-air and humming with lots of ventilation fans.