FRIDAY, March 29, 2024
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Fresh sensations on Samui

Fresh sensations on Samui

Though the focus is on Japan, the restaurant Namu roams the world's cuisines and adds exciting new twists

YOU’RE ON Koh Samui, hungry and feeling adventurous. It sounds like an excellent moment to explore the “Asia Tomorrow” concept on offer at Namu, the restaurant at the W Retreat where South Korean chef Sin Keun Choi holds court.
Namu is Korean for “wood” and natural elements are indeed everywhere as you stroll into this inspiring culinary oasis. The diverse and innovative menu reinterprets food influences from around Asia, Japan in particular, while retaining all of the intrinsic flavours. 
To start with something light, we recommend the sashimi – it will make you forget about soy sauce and wasabi. Hamaji Sashimi, Leek and Mint Dressing (Bt410) is the option to go for if you like chunky, succulent fish served in heavily seasoned sauce with fresh mint atop a bed of leeks simmered in kombu broth. 
Or, if you’re not a fan of mint, have the Sea Bream Carpaccio, Tomato and Sherry Vinegar (Bt430). The paper-thin slices of Spanish bream are topped with in-house vinegar and tomato-juice caviar. The fish is wonderfully savoury in its aromatic dressing, contrasting nicely in texture with the julienned pear and toasted sesame seeds.
The chef reaches beyond Asia to make such well-known dishes as pizza a whole new adventure. The Flatbread Pizza (Bt410) is topped with tuna carpaccio, ripe mango and truffle oil and lightly seasoned with salt and pepper. The result is a well-rounded, flavourful appetiser with a nice balance of Western and Eastern flair.
Before moving on to the next course, take a look at the sake menu and ask for the chef’s recommendation of which infused sake you should have with the next dish. A shot of sake can be infused with lime zest, ginger, butterfly peas, vanilla stick, wasabi, dill, cinnamon or coffee beans for five minutes and then paired with dishes from either the savoury and sweets menu. Push your boundaries a little and have fun!
Classic dishes like tempura and rice rolls are also scrumptious at Namu. Simple offerings are made more interesting through the extensive use of sauces with ingredients ranging from sweet chillies and lemon to mayonnaise. 
The Wok Shrimp Tempura (Bt470) entices the palate with sweet, sour and slightly spicy yuzu-chilli sauce, while refreshing wasabi mayo sauce adds peppery kick to 
 the Shrimp Tempura (Bt390), which is served with avocado and crabmeat.
Another must-try carbohydrate selection is Maine Lobster Stir-fried with Udon and Chilli sauce (Bt1,400). The fat noodles are fried on high heat until slightly smoky and then tossed with the cooked lobster and jalapeno-chilli sauce. The sauce and the stir-fry oiliness make it a bit heavy, but it’s very tasty, even addictive.
Meat lovers shouldn’t miss the konro grill menu, for which prime meat and seafood are cooked slowly on the tiny open-fire grill. 
Wagyu Beef (Grades 7 and 8) and Spring Onion (Bt2,000) comprises slices of highly marbled meat resting on a water-soaked magnolia leaf to protect them from burning. The beef is slowly cooked from outside in, absorbing all the tasty goodness from the thick spring-onion sauce with mushrooms and miso. If you prefer your grilled meat minimally seasoned, this sauce can be a bit overpowering, so give the sauce a miss and just enjoy the lightly grilled succulent meat with its smoky, leafy fragrance.
Do save room for dessert and get a shot of coffee-bean-infused sake to down with the Marinated Strawberry Gratin, Sabayon and Almond Ice Cream (Bt330). Fresh strawberries are marinated in Cointreau and rosewater to become fragrant and served with traditional sweet and rich sabayon and nutty ice cream.
 
ISLAND TREASURES
Namu is at the W Retreat Koh Samui and open daily for dinner (6 to 11pm). Lunch is served Friday through Sunday from noon to 4pm.
Reservations are recommended at (077) 915 999.
 
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