Coming of age in a kimono of her own design

Miu Manaka's father, Haruyuki, 52, custom-makes furniture and during a craftwork exhibition last year, he became acquainted with fellow Sumida Ward resident and yuzen master Takayuki Kato.

The 57-year-old specializes in Tokyo-yuzen, one of the three major styles of resist dyeing to decorate kimono fabric, alongside Kyo-yuzen from Kyoto and Kaga-yuzen from Ishikawa Prefecture.

On hearing that Manaka would be attending her coming-of-age ceremony in 18 months, another artisan at the exhibition suggested that she learn the yuzen technique from Kato, who readily accepted the idea.

Tokyo-yuzen developed during the Edo period (1603-1867) in Edo, present-day Tokyo, when kimono shops opened in the Nihombashi district. There were believed to have been more than 600 Tokyo-yuzen artisans about 50 years ago, but their numbers have fallen to less than 10% of that figure today.

Kato is usually busy making kabuki and stage costumes, but he had received almost no orders since March after many events were cancelled due to the novel coronavirus pandemic. As he felt he had plenty of time to teach yuzen culture, Kato started to work with Manaka in mid-September.

Kato designed the pattern after receiving Manaka's input. He used dahlias, which symbolize "gratitude," as the main motif. He also arranged forget-me-nots and butterflies, which are Manaka's favorite motifs, to complete the beautiful design for her furisode.

To mark her coming-of-age celebration taking place amid the pandemic, the lining of the kimono's bottom is decorated with the motif of Amabie, a yokai supernatural being said to ward off epidemics.

Beginning in October, Manaka went to the studio every day to work on her celebration kimono. Each time, she spent three hours working on coloring the entire fabric with a brush and decorating the outline of the patterns with gold powder.

"Because we are all facing a difficult time, I want people to feel more cheerful through such gorgeous kimono," Kato said.

During a visit to Kato's studio Ishiyama Senko in Sumida Ward on Oct. 12, Manaka was observed learning one of the yuzen processes called noribuse.

"You need to apply it steadily so that the patterns underneath don't show through," Kato said to Manaka.

Noribuse involves applying a rice glue to brightly colored floral patterns previously depicted on a kimono fabric. Using this method can prevent the patterns from disappearing when the fabric is dyed. This is an important process because the uneven application of the rice glue can result in making the patterns unclear.

To help expand yuzen culture, Kato has continued giving yuzen workshops twice a month at Sasaya Cafe in the ward. Painting designs on tenugui cloth costs ¥1,500 and on yukata summer kimono costs from ¥8,000 to ¥20,000, for example. Kato will also accept people who want to make furisode for their coming-of-age ceremonies for the year after next or later.

Manaka's coming-of-age ceremony in Sumida Ward is scheduled to take place in January. Depending on the spread of the novel coronavirus, however, it may be held online or even canceled.

"Even if the ceremony is canceled, I want to wear the furisode I made and say, 'Thank you,' to my parents," a smiling Manaka said.

"I hope this will get young people interested in the beauty of the craftwork produced in their neighborhood," Kato said.