A feast for all the senses
Three-Michelin-star chef Regis Marcon, a renowned organic mushroom expert, whips up his magic at the Six Senses Yao Noi
People come to the Six Senses Yao Noi beyond Phuket to unwind and enjoy the resort’s “Slow Life” concept. As the resort is located on the secluded island of Koh Yao Noi, a 45minute speed boat ride from Phuket’s Ao Por Grand Marina, it’s easy to assume that its restaurants will offer Southernstyle island food with plenty of turmeric powder. That’s halfcorrect. What few realise is that the chefs here are committed to organic, biodynamic and locally sourced produce that is healthy and ethically sound – meaning no shark fins, Atlantic Salmon, Chilean sea bass and the like). And that explains why so many organic food lovers headed to Six Senses earlier this month to as savour the fourcourse dinner with paired wines created by the visiting threeMichelinstar chef Regis Marcon, France’s best known organic mushroom expert. Adding to the experience was the venue: a hilltop perch with a magnificent view of the dark blue sea and a scattering of islands in the distance.
The media’s threeday Michelinstar experience began last Friday with a communal table at The Hilltop in the evening following a cocktail reception at the Den, which overlooks the bay. The Communal Table dinner was supposed to bring the hotel’s resident guests and the visiting French chef together in an informal atmosphere. Chef Marcon and the resort’s team prepared multiple dishes using local produce from the Phang Nga Bay region. We were impressed with especially Brouillade de trufffes, a mix of egg with truffles.
The highlight, the much anticipated Saturday Bt4,500 fourcourse dinner, at the Dining Room, was packed with resident guests. With the mushroom expert creating the menu, the night had truffles in every dish. It’s true that the chef has eaten mushrooms all his life. His rural village near Lyon has forested hills that are home to plenty of wild mushrooms. So the concept of the night was village style, classic French cooking that began in his parents’ restaurant there some 33 years ago.
The Amusebouches were impressive. Brouillade de trufffes reappeared alongside a trio of Crepe au Wasabi, Olainade legume et poisson (fish and vegetable) and Tartare de Boeuf (beef).
Local produce figured prominently in the first course: Phang Nga Lobster, organic local mushrooms served hot and cold with a sweet and sour dressing and paired with 2008 Domaine Vacheron, Sancerre. Michele, wife of Chef Marcon, who was in charge of the wine pairing, said she selected the Sancerre because it’s “not dry”, with aromas of white flowers, and good for mushrooms and the fish. Sourcing the lobster in the morning himself, the chef said the small Thai crustacean, is quite different from the French one, and he would prefer to call it Langouste (“very expensive in France!”) rather than lobster. But with four spices, vinaigrette and more olive oil, the dish should be fine even though he admitted later that he forgot to put in rosemary. We found it amazing anyway: fresh, simple and aromatic.
The next course, local sea bass with cockles and mussels, was paired with 2004 Borie Manoux Chateau BelAir, Graves AOC. It was a succulent dish using local ingredients and we all enjoyed the freshness and the familiar flavours of the seafood dish.
Then came Lamb comme ci, comme ca with mushroom praline. I liked the fried mushrooms with shallot placed on top. Served with local vegetables, the lamb was mediumrare, juicy and tender. It went well with the praline (paste made of caramelised almonds and/or hazelnuts), and the sauce obtained from the lamb fat. At his restaurant, the dish is usually served with layers of potato slices on top of a mix of fried cepes, shallot and butter. We were able to taste that in a cooking class a day later.
The dish was paired with 2005 Michel Chapoutier, Gigondas, itself a blend of grape varieties, a strong and warm wine perfect to match a heavy meal like lamb.
After herb sorbet, we continued with banana (very ripe one) and morille brochette, partnered with 2005, Klein Constantia Vin de Constance. With the sweet and nutty finish, this bright golden wine displayed notes of orange peel and sundried peaches.
The sweetness of the dish and the wine paled in comparison with chocolate tiles with cherries. But I managed to swallow it all up happily. Spotting some chocolate left on the plate, Michele recommended using the fingers to finish off the dish, just as the French would normally do. I did just that.
