In celebration of dreams

Having proved there’s power in numbers by protesting the plagiarising of their designs last years, the 17 leading Thai labels who make up Bangkok Fashion Society presented their latest spring and summer 2012 collections last week under a new campaign dubbed “Bangkok Based, Bangkok Best”.

This time round, Greyhound, Playhound, Kloset, Asava, Disaya, Senada, Sanchai, Munchu’s, Theatre, Sretsis, Issue, Vickteerut, Painkiller, Curated, Tu’i, Tuiti were joined by newcomer Milin.
The designers say they prefer to present themselves as a group, as it strengthens their bargaining power allows them to grow with grace and creativity and brings them recognition in both local and international fashion arenas.

Influenced by global trends, the overall collection was based on four distinctive styles and concepts, reinterpreted through each brand’s character.

“Celebration” emphasised ennui with reality and catastrophe and focused on a new sense of joy, fun, and laughter. Fashionistas dressed up to travel to a land of dreams for a magical time.

The second trend, “Sporty Futurism” had a sport silhouette and a flexible, practical and futuristic form. “Mutation”, the third trend to watch for, transformed classic styling with new progressive accents while “Day Dreaming” featured fantasies in a world of colour.

Designers blended the trends and interpreted the concepts through shapes, techniques and materials. Quintessential prints have always played an important role in BFS’s designs and this year was certainly no exception.

Disaya’s spring and summer 2012 “Merry Goes Around” collection reflected the first trend perfectly. Designer Disaya Sorakraikitikul took fashionistas through the carnival, travelling on a gleaming magic carousel, floating in a serene Ferris wheel, and watching fireworks sparkle. Her key look was formulated by tiered frills and ruffled drapery on silk chiffon, zigzag and scalloped-edge cut-outs and crystal fixed on digital print jersey that emulates the burst of fireworks and their starry flames. The three immaculate prints – rainbow bubbles, luminous love sparkler and carnival kaleidoscope, epitomised the spirit of the funfair.

Kloset’s inspiration came from Thai literature. The “Himmapan” collection told a surreal story of forest nymphs through sequins and bead stitching, and powder tone colours with little twists of sharp pink, orange, and green. The prints were dreamlike with clouds, blue bells, and the lumduan, a flower often referenced in Thai novels.

Bhubawit “Roj” Kritpholnara for Issue invited fashionistas to enjoy the spirit of a summer festival with his “Summer Kites” theme. The new collection reflected the diversity of the kite festival, the beauty of its patterns and forms and the sunshine.

For Sretsis, Pimdao and Matina Sukhahuta drew inspiration from their oldest sister, Klyduen’s recent wedding and pregnancy. “Oh, My Dear, Deer!” collection traced the passage from honeymoon to life on the farm with deer, daisies and lots of devotion. Key looks were detachability, tailored cuts, and jumpsuits with Hickory stripes, as well as Bambi shirtdress that can double as a light jacket.

Senada’s “Eau de Anemone” is another brand that always offers interesting prints with border detail. In this collection, the detachable geometric pattern looked like new art while a layer pleat with a hilltribe print motif was remixed with a coral reef print.

Playhound has long been famous for its cool prints. This season was all about love inspired by Popeye and Olive Oyl. The popping heart was recreated as patchwork pockets, the anchors tattoo used as prints while and rope details could be seen throughout the collection.

Beside fancy prints, Playhound’s modern classic outfits were also eye-catching, with new details such as sport cuts, slits, cut outs and feminine drapes.

Greyhound’s “Backward is the best way forward” collection explored such traditional crafting techniques as weaving, lace and classic Jacquard printing, and applied these techniques to the garments, creating a new look and feel for the collection.

Munchu’s paid more attention to modern city people with a modern Bohemian style through long silhouettes and tailored jackets in black, white, and neutral colours. Frills, card prints and embroidery were used to symbolise the “Bohemian” identity.

Asava, Sanchaii, Vickteerut, Milin, Theatre, and Tuiti were prominent in their styles, elegant and chic, yet edgy. There was some semi-couture too, with a refined mixture of silhouettes, tailoring and double layered lace, which redefined feminine sensuality. Luxury details, embroidery and sequins were used to create a new dimension to the fabric with feather decoration adding a touch of glamour to the accessories, especially the Tu’i handbag.