Food with a patriotic flavour

CHEF AYUSAKORN “Van” Arayangkoon of the French brasserie 4 Garcons is being patriotic in his Christmas celebrations this year with a holiday menu that sees the traditional Yuletide shades of green, white and red replaced with the colours of Thai national flag. The blue, red and white theme is featured both in the interior decoration and the food presentation and is a testament to the chef’s strong feelings for King and country.

Situated at Oakwood Residence of Thonglor Soi 13, the eatery is decorated in contemporary chic style with comfy long sofas and multi-colour pillows, wooden chairs, chesterfields, plus stacks of cookbooks and bouquets. 

The Christmas tree greeting visitors at the entrance, however, is not decorated with typical ornaments like angels, metallic balls and snowflakes but with bows in the colours of Thai national flag. 

Turkey is always a centrepiece for Christmas feast and Van offers it as a single serving with a dish called Rajdamnoen Turkey (Bt680). Presented in five horizontal stripes like the flag of Thailand, the central blue stripe is steamed jasmine rice coloured blue with extract of dok anchan or butterfly pea. The two white stripes are turkey and they’re topped with a stuffing of porcini mushrooms, bread crumbs, truffles and walnuts while the two red stripes are cranberry and pomegranate sauces.

A regular at the ongoing anti-government protests, Van is obviously enjoying making a political statement through his food. His next creation is Puff Lova (Bt250), a meringue dressed with white cream, red cranberry and blue butterfly pea and topped with cranberry jam. The rainbow cake – the eatery’s popular sweet – doesn’t come in seven colourful layers but gets a patriotic makeover with the blue, red and white achieved with food colouring. His Thai flag cake is light chiffon as it’s made from vegetable oil, eggs, sugar and flour without butter. It comes Bt180 a slice or Bt1,600 for two pounds. 

Those with less patriotic zeal can opt for the normal looking turkey topped with gravy, stuffing of porcini mushroom, bread crumbs, truffles, pumpkin and walnuts on the side, together with carrot puree and mashed potatoes in yellow and purple from Hokkaido sweet purple potato.

“To ensure the flesh of turkey is moist and tender, I insert butter sheets between the skin and slow roast for four hours,” says Van who honed his culinary skills at Le Cordon Bleu Dusit Culinary School.

Another celebration dish that is perfect for sharing is Roast Pork Belly (Bt680). It’s also slowly roasted for a crispy skin and tender flesh and served with mustard sauce and mashed potato. The wine menu is extensive with more than 50 labels from around the world.

The name of the restaurant is taken from four owners who have different career paths but very similar tastes. The head chefs are Rujapong Sukhabote, whose by day toils as a gastroenterologist, and Van who used to work in medical logistics. Lawyer Piroon Wacharamontri gets the kudos for the interior design while the well-trained staff are in capable hands of John Chan, whose previous career had to do with aeroplanes.

 

 

STRIPES WITHOUT THE STAR

>>The holiday menu is available until January 10. 

>>4 Garcons is at Oakwood Residence on Thonglor Soi 13 off Sukhumvit Soi 55. >>It’s open daily, from 10am to 11pm. Call (02) 713 9547 or visit www.4Garcons.com.