Cartier salutes Siam
A century after Rama V popped into the Paris shop, the best Thai customers enjoy a ride on the royal yacht
Jewellery maker Cartier recently celebrated the 100th anniversary of its relations with the Thai Royal Household with a Bangkok exhibition of historical pieces. Included was a marvellous necklace that King Chulalongkorn acquired from Cartier’s in 1908.
The official opening in the Author’s Lounge at the Mandarin Oriental featured a “High Jewellery” gala dinner for clients, at which Cartier’s latest creations bearing its stylised panther were unveiled for the first time anywhere.
President and chief executive Stanislas de Quercize and regional director Gregoire Blanche shared hosting duties.
“It was with great excitement that we brought to Thailand unique pieces from the private collection linked to the history of Siam,” Blanche declared. “Over one century of privileged relations are being celebrated through Cartier’s iconic style and unmistakable contemporary flair as well as creations from Cartier’s most recent High Jewellery Panther Collection.”
King Chulalongkorn (Rama V) visited the Cartier premises at 13 rue de la Paix in Paris during European tour in 1908 and made several purchases. One was the necklace for his queen regent, Saovabha.
Also on view was the travel log of Jules Glaenzer, Cartier’s “grand vendeur”, recording his impressions of Siam when he came for the King’s jubilee commemorations a year later. Glaenzer was staying at the Oriental when he penned those words.
From the hotel, the evening’s guests from home and abroad departed for a “secret destination” aboard His Majesty King Bhumibol’s yacht Angsana, manned by Royal Thai Navy officers.
The secret was soon revealed: the neo-classical building that is still home to Thailand’s original commercial bank, established by His Royal Highness Prince Mahisorn, finance minister and a half-brother of Chulalongkorn. The building is today one of the most recognised historical landmarks along the Chao Phraya River.
Her Royal Highness Princess Sirivannavari Nariratana was among the Cartier guests marvelling at the 140 pieces of jewellery on view. The panther prowled through the magnificent collection alongside other figurative designs set with precious stones.
The Cartier panther first appeared on a wristwatch in 1914. Its paving of black and white onyx and diamonds pioneered the contrasts of the Art Deco style that was still to come. Jeanne Toussaint, Louis Cartier’s collaborator and muse, embodied the “panther lady”, unfurling slender and graceful.
The 2014 panther remains distinguished by its modern appearance, regardless of the item of jewellery to which it clings. Wrapped around the finger in a perfect fit, the ring pounces with feline grace. You can see the flawless aesthetics and defined muscles on a body of yellow gold or diamonds flecked with onyx. The setting is suited to the panther, since tiny gold threads fold over the stone to reproduce the effect of the animal’s coat.
The paving is given a voluminous, fluid appearance that emphasises and exalts. The metal is overshadowed while the movement remains. To give the animal its final shape, the jeweller assembles its various joints in sculpting, casting, stone setting and mounting, altogether requiring more than a year’s work for some pieces.
