On the roof in any weather
No need to miss out on fresh-air views when dining out. The fine French fare at Blue Sky doesn't miss a beat while sheltering from the storm
THE RAIN is finally falling, not quite yet as exuberantly as the country’s northern reaches require, but enough to give Bangkokians second thoughts about actually dining outside when they dine out. Nevertheless the al-fresco experience continues to beckon at Central Plaza Lad Phrao, where the romantic setting and impressive views afforded by Blue Sky atop the Centara Grand are matched by its relative protection from the elements.
The lofty bistro-bar has long been a popular place to enjoy the cityscape amid lovely French specialities, tailor-made cocktails and good wine – in any weather. This was one of the city’s first rooftop restaurants, and the panorama seen from its ramparts is marvellous. Guests are led to their tables in the elegant yet cosy main dining area via a long tunnel whose dark walls are flecked with fairy lights, a precursor of the starlit night just ahead.
The stars of the heavens might be hidden in the overcast sky for now, but their pinpoints of light are echoed in chandeliers and curtains of crystals whose reflections glimmer on the surfaces of the couches and tables, enough to seat more than 100. There are also two private rooms with big-screen television sets for family dinners and private rendezvous.
The French executive chef, Eric Berrigaud, has served at several Michelin-star restaurants, the airport Novotel at Nice on the French Riviera, Rosewood Hotels & Resorts in the Caribbean, the Sofitel Silom Bangkok and the Bangkok International Trade & Exhibition Centre – the last hardly known for its gourmet fare but surely a place to learn the art of pleasing a crowd.
And, at Blue Sky, pleasing the crowd is what he does with gusto, with a fresh menu every year that evokes glimpses of Michelin glory. His latest bill of fare features healthier, lighter and less creamy French cuisine, a savvy, modern approach that’s nevertheless anchored in traditional cooking techniques. The humble but always coveted garden snail of his homeland makes an appearance, as does French beef, but there is also Australian and Japanese beef, Scottish salmon and cod from the cold North Atlantic.
“A lot more people are paying attention to their health nowadays,” Berrigaud notes. “I try to give them added assurance about the quality of the food here by using top-quality imported ingredients like marbled Miyazaki beef and Atlantic codfish that’s very firm in texture, and yet all of the dishes are reasonably priced. In the preparation I stick to the original techniques while at the same time enhancing the flavour to match Thai tastes.”
He seems particularly proud of the escargot – “a signature French dish”, to say the least – and the bisque-style fish soup with paprika, crouton and Parmesan cheese, but says his Salad Nicoise and Salad Bistro Gourmand are also perennially popular.
What seems to be the perfect starter is delectable Sardines Rillette (Bt380), the little fish served layered in olive oil in a glass and topped with diced tomatoes, avocado, lettuce and piquillo peppers from northern Spain, with warm bread on the side. Considerably more substantial and yet still presented simply, Foie Gras Lasagna (Bt850) is a large slab of tender meat, pan-fried with mushrooms and wrapped in a soft flour blanket. Black-truffle emulsion is poured over top.
Salmon Gravlax is marinated in spices, lemon capers and honey-mustard sauce and served in sour cream. Spanish Chorizo Julienne comes with a poached egg, sauteed mushrooms and a froth of espuma. The Tomato Tart is a puff pastry roasted with wonderfully aromatic goat cheese.
The beef is beautifully handled regardless of its origin. Miyazaki Striploin Grade A4 (Bt2,800) arrives in a sizzling pan accompanied by Asian salad, smooth potato gratin and red-wine sauce.
And the Braised Codfish (Bt980) is endearingly tender alongside baked spinach in caviar cream sauce.
The ideal finish to the meal is the Coffee Gourmand (Bt210) – hot cappuccino heading a phalanx of four different pastry treats (in my case tiramisu, a chocolate chip cookie, a blueberry cupcake and a powerfully rich chocolate tart). The Profiteroles (Bt190) are divine as well, with choux pastry filled with tangy passion-fruit sorbet, warm chocolate sauce on the side.
For tipplers, the bar proffers an appealing array of cocktails. The foam-peaked White Cosmopolitan (Bt400) is a blend of Ciroc vodka, triple sec, white-grape juice, lime juice and vanilla syrup. The French Margarita (Bt320) is Grand Marnier, Tres Maguees tequila and lime juice. Keep exploring – there’s much more.
RAINY-DAY RARITIES
>>Blue Sky is on the 24th floor of the Centara Grand at Central Plaza Lad Phrao Bangkok.
>>It’s open daily from 6pm to 2am.
>>Book an evening at (02) 541 1234, extension 4603.
