Farang-friendly samurai dining
Jubei Izakaya offers spiced-up Japanese appeal and cocktails worthy of a shogun
THE FOOD and cocktails are excellent, but maybe the quick success of the recently opened Jubei Izakaya also has something to do with it being named after a samurai warrior as famed for his drinking as his swordsmanship.
The samurai was Yagyu Jubei Mitsuyoshi (1607-50), a figure colourful enough that he’d probably feel quite at home in the new restaurant-bar at Mahatun Plaza on Ploenchit Road, despite the decidedly Western whirl it gives Japanese dining tradition.
Spread over two floors, Jubei Izakaya has a “Japanese industrial” design, the factory-like trappings tamed somewhat by paintings on the walls of koi fish being chased by Mitsuyoshi’s fellow samurai, engagingly rendered by a young half-French, half-Thai artist.
Co-founder Christian Pucher is Swiss, but he’s been living and working in the neighbourhood for nine years.
“My friends and I wanted a place where Thai and farang diners could hang out together, so we’ve kept the layout very simple and comfortable, like someone’s living room,” he says. “There are dining areas both inside and out and a window wall overlooking the street.”
The concept matches that of Tokyo’s izakaya – bars that serve food – but the food certainly doesn’t play second fiddle. “We offer basic izakaya-style dishes that we’ve adapted to create new flavours and different textures,” Pucher explains.
Veteran chef Satoshi Sawada of the Four Seasons gets the credit for concocting a marvellous menu to fit both Thai and farang tastes.
A terrific starter is Bari Bari (Bt180), ramen noodles in a crispy salad of spicy minced pork, bean sprouts, cherry tomatoes and an onsen (poached) egg, all draped in sesame-soy dressing. Another is Crab Gyoza (Bt150), deep-fried dumplings stuffed with a creamy crabmeat-vegetable mix.
Tuna Tataki (Bt290) dresses the fish fresh from Japan in a tangy dressing and trims it with salmon roe and grated turnip. The Pork Bun (Bt140) is a fried Taiwanese roll filled with tender, charcoal-seared meat (chashu), lettuce and tomato in homemade sauce.
Jubei Tonkotsu Gyokai Shoyu Ramen (Bt220) has the noodles in a mellow pork-and-fish broth topped with more of that chashu, a marinated egg (shoyu), mushrooms, scallions, leeks, the Japanese seasoning called menma and toasted seaweed.
Salmon with Spicy Cream (Bt270) lays the seared fish on a bed of vegetables in a spicy cream sauce. There are also yakitori skewers of eringue and shiitaki mushrooms, chicken and leek, and marbled beef with grilled asparagus wrapped in bacon, ranging in price from Bt50 to Bt180.
When it’s time for sweets, don’t miss the Cinnamon Bao (Bt160), a fried bun accompanied by vanilla ice cream and topped with corn syrup.
As for the drinks, Pucher recommends two cocktails in particular, each Bt220. The Shoshoni blends shochu, Campari, vermouth and orange espuma (foam), while the Jubei Stormy is a light mix of sake, ginger beer and lime espuma.
CHOPSTICKS, NOT SWORDS
>>Jubei Izakaya is in the Mahatun Plaza compound on Ploenchit Road and open daily from 11am to midnight. Book a table at |(02) 651 5020.
>>Get more details at |www.Jubei-Izakaya.com.
