A feast to remember
Multi-awarded French chef Joel Robuchon celebrates the first anniversary of his Bangkok restaurant with a superb lunch menu
RENOWNED FRENCH chef Joel Robuchon recently marked the first anniversary of his Bangkok home, L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon, by returning to town to introduce a new lunch menu that blends old favourites with new creations centred on seasonal ingredients.
Founded by Robuchon and managed by fellow Frenchman, chef Olivier Limousin, L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon Bangkok, is the ninth outlet of this multi-award winning restaurant chain and offers an extensive wine selection and French cuisine that’s to die for. Adding to its charm is the possibility of ordering either a single dish accompanied by a glass of wine or multiple courses providing a selection of carefully chosen dishes.
Starting his apprenticeship at the age of 15, Robuchon has been recognised with a string of titles including “Chef of the Century” in 1990, “Chef of the Year” in 1987 and “Meilleur Ouvrier de France” in 1976. He currently holds the highest number of ratings in the world with 25 Michelin stars, including four 3-star restaurants in Las Vegas, Macau, Tokyo and Hong Kong.
“I believe in the old saying that you are what you eat.” Robuchon told The Sunday Nation. “And I believe in sourcing the best and freshest products I can find. I keep well away from molecular gastronomy . At the beginning of the fad I tried it and I was warned by some nutritionists and therapists that the chemical parts and the molecular distortions used in the process are somewhat unhealthy, so I stopped and returned to basic, fresh ingredients and ways to enhance these simple things into marvellous dishes.”
The kitchen uses imported ingredients where necessary and local herbs and vegetables mostly from The Royal Project.
“It’s more expensive, I admit, but at the end of the day using the best ingredients costs much the same as using cheaper ones. You can’t use all of the cheap ingredients and there are parts that you have to throw away because the quality is not there, while with the best ingredients you can use all – there’s no waste. Also, the better the ingredients, the tastier and healthier the dish is,” he says.
The new lunch set starts off with an Amuse-bouche of Crisp and Soft Quinoa where the grains are toasted to crispiness making for a light and tasty savoury serving. A slight hint of chilli helps boost the appetite.
Next up is the Imperial Caviar where coppery and salty caviar is placed on top of savoury jelly made of lobster broth and enjoyed along with drops of light cauliflower cream to cut the fishiness and saltiness of the other ingredients.
Apple and Beetroot Tartare is a new addition and made entirely from Royal Project produce. The sweet, sour and savoury and slightly peppery dish is constructed of diced beetroot and apple, topped with tarragon-laced herb salad and green mustard sorbet and is a very refreshing and cleansing dish.
The pre-main is Glazed “Onsen” Egg on top of golden crispy rice. Slightly reminiscent of the simple Thai dish khao khai dao, the fancy additions are shaved Parmesan and fresh white truffle, and dollops of chicken jus as sauce on the side.
The star of the set is the Milk-fed Lamb Cutlets that are only lightly seasoned and seared on a teppanyaki pan until the outside is golden brown and the meat juicy and succulent. On the side is a bouquet of fresh thyme and baked garlic, and of course, Robuchon’s world-famous secret recipe mashed potato that initially earned him stardom on the gastronomic scene years ago.
Cap off the meal with Black Forest Cake in shape of a mushroom served with chocolate cream flavoured with kirsh and sour cherry coulis.
The seven-course degustation lunch set costs Bt7,500 per person, and Bt5,000 for the five- course version. Wine pairing is also available at an extra Bt3,000 (five glasses) and Bt4,000 (seven glasses).
SEVENTH HEAVEN
>>L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon Bangkok is on the fifth floor of Mahanakorn Cube (Chongnonsi BTS Station).
>>It is open daily for lunch from 11.30am to 2.30pm and for dinner from 6.30 to 10.30pm.
>>Reservation is highly recommended. Call (02) 001 0698 or visit http://Robuchon-Bangkok.com.
