By The Nation
Shaw + Smith’s environmentally sensitive winery, it is regarded as the benchmark for winery developments in the Adelaide Hills. A new bottling line was installed in 2002, ensuring that the winery now has full control of every aspect of production – from grape berry to bottle.
Tasmania is a remarkable place to grow grapes, so in early 2011 Shaw + Smith set off for a look and ended up buying a vineyard. The Tolpuddle Vineyard in the Coal River Valley was planted in 1988. The climate is cool and dry – ideal conditions to grow chardonnay and pinot noir of exceptional quality – and today Tolpuddle ranks as one of the greatest Australian single vineyards.
Reds and whites from both vineyards were paired with a special menu by Tables chef Kevin Kristensen. Savoury scallop tartar with razor clam was brightened by the aromatic and fresh Shaw + Smith Sauvignon Blanc 2016, while the following course, black tiger prawns with grilled romaine lettuce and dill oil, was matched with Tolpuddle Chardonnay 2014, which boasted a creamy, lightly spiced oak aroma with an overlay of clean-cut citrus fruit.
Gamey, fruity and sweet seared duck breast with spiced honey glaze was paired with Tolpuddle’s iconic Pinot Noir 2015 whose rice, cherry nose and gentle, mouth-watering and lengthy finish made the dish very pleasant and well-rounded. Another Pinot Noir 2015 from Shaw + Smith was served with the main course, sous-vide lamb loin with sour cherry and pepper glaze. The heavily seasoned, fruity and peppery dish went down smoothly with the perfumed red with delicate, silky tannins that cut the grease and toned down the harsh spice.
The second main course of the night, grilled rib eye fillet with butter mash and burnt leek, came with Shaw + Smith Shiraz 2014. Thanks to the vintage’s fresh and vibrant red fruit aroma, the medium-body red did not overpower but instead subtly accentuated and enhanced hidden flavours of the dish, making it a very succulent and pleasing combination.
The meal ended with cherry jubilee and kirsch ice cream.
The dinner was joined by Paul Robilliard, Australia’s ambassador to Thailand.