A whale of a time

“Whale watching is a life-changing experience,” says the friendly man from Hertz Rental Car at Nelson Airport as he helps me set up “Becky”, our speaking GPS device. “The whales are spectacular when they are breaching, hopping, sailing and tailing,” he tells us and his enthusiasm is catching. We can’t wait to spot our first whale. Two days later, when we arrive in Kaikuora on the east coast of South Island, we discover that the life-changing experience starts with a plea for mercy. We miss the boat by just seconds and it seems that we are going to miss the whales too. 

“Please, everyone we’ve met in the last two days insists that whale watching is a must. It’s a life changing experience,” I implore the staff of Whale Watch. “Back home in Thailand, we don’t have whales and the biggest animal we’ve ever seen is an elephant. We cannot leave New Zealand without seeing a whale fluking.”

The lady behind the counter regards us sympathetically and turns back to her computer before running her fingers through the reservations. She takes a while to check the bookings and makes a telephone call. We have only a half a day in Kaikuora, and it’s looking more and more like our whale-watching trip is a write-off. Then Lady Luck gives a broad smile. 

“Two people haven’t confirmed their bookings,” she tells us. “I will put you two in the first boat tomorrow morning. Don’t miss the boat twice.”

We didn’t mean to be late but the scenery here in New Zealand, not to mention the fine food and wine, made us linger a little too long on the road. We have only one week in South Island and we are determined to do as much as possible, from paddling in the clear turquoise crystal waters to strolling around Mt Cook Valley. Whale watching, of course, is also part of our road trip around South Island. 

Nestled on the island’s rugged east coast, Kaikoura is the unofficial whale watching capital of New Zealand. In the waters off this peninsula, a complex marine system provides an abundantly rich habitat for marine mammals and seabirds, making it an ideal place for getting close to nature. Legend has it that the Ngati Kuri people, as the Maori tribe who founded Kaikoura are known, rode with the mythical Paikea on the back of a white whale from Hawaii to New Zealand. Whale Watch is also run by the Maori and has been taking tourists out to sea for almost 30 years. Kaikoura, we are told, is the best place to watch whales fluking, as the action of lifting its tail is called.

Right now though, we still have a few hours in Kaikoura before the sky goes completely dark. We quickly check into Hapuku Tree Houses and Lodge – a stylish eco-friendly resort. Perched 10 metres above the ground in the canopy of a native Manuka grove, our Tree House is designed as a contemporary complement to the environment. The exterior is clad in native woods and copper shingles and large windows bring the tree canopy right into the bedroom.

We leave our lodge with a list of places we want to explore and again are grateful for deciding on a self-drive trip. Rather than being rushed on and off a tour bus, we’ve been able to discover New Zealand at our own pace. From Nelson on the northern tip of South Island, for example, we’ve come to Kaikoura via Havelock and Marlborough. The small seaport of Havelock is known as the mussel capital of the world, while Marlborough is famous for its Sauvignon Blanc.

Kaikoura itself, in the Maori tongue, means “meal of crayfish” and that prompts us to ask “Becky” to guide us to Nins Bin, a roadside eatery specialising in freshly cooked lobster. Owner Ricky, who’s been in business since 1977, catches his lobster the old way – by spearfishing. We order a decent-sized crayfish and savour the taste of Kaikoura. 

The next morning, we’re the first to arrive at Whaleway Station and check in for Whale Watch Kaikoura tour. As the lady said, you cannot miss the boat twice. 

Back in 1987, at a time when the Maori were finding it impossible to earn a decent living, Ngati Kuri leader like Bill Solomon looked at the Pacific and hoped the whale could bring prosperity to his people. The tales of breaching, hopping, sailing and fluking whales quickly spread and today business is thriving. 

Our boat is packed with tourists from all corners of the world. We’re informed that beneath the Kaikoura sea is a canyon – a giant habitat for a giant creature.

“Roughly put together in a U-shape, Kaikoura Canyon is about 60 kilometres long and up to 1,200 metres deep,” says our guide. 

The sea is very rough. From time to time the Maori “whale spotter” dips a stethoscope of sorts into the sea to listen to the whales, helping the crews locate the giant creatures. An hour passes and sensitive stomachs are reacting badly to the churning waves but there’s no sign of a whale never mind any fluking. 

“Whale spotting is a matter of luck too,” says the guide. “On a trip we might spot five or six whales, while on another we see little more than a wandering albatross.”

“Just wait and be patient” I whisper to myself, determined to keep sea sickness at bay. It doesn’t look good though and it seems that the Asian elephant will remain the largest mammal I’ve ever seen. 

Then, just as the captain is just about to sheer away, the miracle happens. 

“Eleven o’clock!” somebody yells. 

Like something out of “Moby Dick”, a massive sperm whale emerges from the water. The 15-ton behemoth sends up a v-shaped spout of water from its blowhole, flips, and flukes as it dives into the depths of Kaikoura Canyon.

A life-changing experience indeed.

 

IF YOU GO

+Thai Airways International flies between Bangkok and Auckland. A Thai driving license, with the name is English, can be used to hire a car.

+Driving in New Zealand is easy. Just stick to the speed limit, and follow the rules of the road.