‘Sir’ will see you now: Bangkok museum’s ghost rises at Halloween
“If you smell scented water, brace yourself, stay mindful, and keep calm. The day is about to get chaotic.”
The warning sends a chill through our group as we enter the centuries-old halls of Bangkok National Museum on the “Ghost Walk”.
It comes from museum official Saian Boonchuay, our guide to the International Ghost Festival at Siwamokkhaphiman Hall within the museum.
"Every place has inhabitants who have been there long before. The more important a place is to the nation, the more it should be respected and not disparaged in any way," Saian says.
The Bangkok National Museum occupies the old Wang Na, or Front Palace, which was built in 1782 at the same time as the Grand Palace. The two grand buildings face each other across the royal field of Sanam Luang, in the capital’s historic heart of Rattanakosin.
The Front Palace served as the residence of the younger brother of Rama I, Boonma, who held the title of Wang Na.
The three halls of the Front Palace, including Siwamokkhaphiman, were converted into the National Museum when the position of Wang Na was abolished during the reign of Rama V.
Saian, a veteran lead curator who has dedicated 30 years of her life to the museum, has reservations about using the term “ghost” for unexplained phenomena at Siwamokkhaphiman Hall.
Instead, she prefers to refer to the spirit behind these strange occurrences as “Sir”.
Having warned us that a mysterious odour of scented water signals chaos, she then talks us through the gentler side of the spirit.
She believes “Sir” is the spirit of a person who once lived in the Front Palace.
Sensing its presence while at work helps calm her and offers clues about how her day will unfold.
"Personally, I’m not a very patient person. However, I work in customer service so I can’t speak out. But once I know what today will be, I stay composed.”
She explains how subtle changes in the air bring a feeling of spiritual peace to the museum.
"When we smell the sweet fragrance of fresh flowers, we feel blessed and happy. Even though we may feel very tired, we will feel deep satisfaction. Whether through compliments or other activities, we will encounter something good. This is what I have found at Siwamokkhaphiman Hall.”
Saian then sets our minds further to rest.
"Do you see, 'Sir' is not ghostly, but someone who constantly watches over, protects, and guards us, like a guardian angel, letting us know how to prepare.”
Even if visitors don’t sense its presence, they should take care not to disturb or challenge the spirit, she cautions, while offering a few words for the presence she calls the museum’s guardian angel.
“Thank you very much, even if I don't know if 'Sir' is here or not.”
Valanch Suphakorn
