Trends from the top

TOP TEN TRENDS from the Spring/Summer 2016 womenswear collections at Milan fashion week, which wrapped up on Monday:

GUCCI’S GEEK CHIC RULES
Alessandro Michele led the way with a second acclaimed collection for Gucci. Michele’s woman – feisty, kooky and independent – dresses to please herself. The influence of Michele’s vision was felt across almost every other collection.

MULLETS ARE BACK
Not the short-at-the-front, long-at-the-back hairstyle favoured by 1980s footballers: rather skirts and dress cut asymmetrically to given evening wear a lighter, rockier feel. See Peter Dundas at Roberto Cavalli.
AND SO ARE LEGS
The asymmetric trend, the younger mini-friendly turn of many lines and Dolce and Gabbana’s retro beachwear all point to 2016’s must-have accessory being a good pair of pins. How do we know? Giorgio Armani told us so.

GOWNS ARE GONE
Haute couture mega gowns are enjoying a moment on the celebrity red carpet courtesy of Rihanna and co. But weighty, full-length evening wear was a rare breed in in Milan. The end of ready-to-wear glamour?

LIGHT IS RIGHT -
Etro’s ballet-themed collection made the point most blatantly but light-as-a-feather fabrics were everywhere, from billowing dress trains to the bows adorning flat sandals. Good time to be in the sheer organza business.

DIAPHANOUS DISCONNECT -
The visible nipple count hit a new high as the likes of Anna Molinari at Blumarine embraced tops so see-through they begged the question: “Really?” Giamba deployed strategic stars and hearts to keep things demure.

BOMBER COMMAND
2016’s on-the-move woman needs a jacket that can be thrown on quickly: hence the bomber versions at Marco de Vincenzo, Etro, Cavalli and Versace, whose military-inspired tailoring was hailed as a welcome move away from the brand’s overt sexiness

BIG GLASSES ARE GOOD
Gucci featured jewel-encrusted glasses so big the models were all rubbing their tiny noses backstage. At Emilio Pucci the oversized eyewear resembled scuba masks. Dolce and Gabbana gave the look a 1950s twist.

ALL CLOGGED UP
Cheetah-print clogs anyone? Bottega Veneta is your place. In line with the “dressing for ourselves” mood, flats predominated, from strappy sandals to peep-toe booties, sometimes adorned by fur and feather.

THE GREAT OUTDOORS
Max Mara headed for the ocean, numerous collections had a beachwear feel and Bottega Veneta’s Tomas Maier declared: “I want to be in the open air.” 2016 is going to be a year for getting out and about.