A healthy bite of the Big Mango

IF YOU’RE looking for a romantic and sumptuous Valentine feast, head to Tribeca Restobar on Thonglor for a four-course set menu of modern American cuisine in a uniquely New York setting. 

Re-opened late last year, Tribeca Restobar takes its name from the artsy district celebrated for its multicultural vibe. That inspiration extends to the kitchen, which is manned by French cuisine expert Suradit Chansrichawala, who is also the owner of the restaurant.

While the decor is typical New York cafe setting, the tables are cleverly positioned to maximise privacy, making it an ideal spot for couples and groups of friends as well as for business talk. 

The special Valentine set menu, which is priced at Bt1,600 per person, starts off with the refreshing and appetite-whetting compressed watermelon salad. The watery and crunchy watermelon is vacuum compressed to maximise the sweetness and tenderness and served with a mousse of goat’s cheese, quinoa, parma ham and jalapeno peppers.

Next up is the crab roulade where the crabmeat is rolled with crunchy rose apple to create a contrasting yet complementary texture. The roll is served with sweet and sour ripe mango salad and a yuzu beurre blanc sauce that cuts the greasiness and the natural pungency of the crabmeat, making the dish pleasingly creamy and savoury. The main course is scallop cordon bleu with the sizeable scallops filled with cheese and parma ham and served with a harrisa chilli puree that leaves a mild, lingering hotness. On the side is frisee salad with balsamic dressing that refreshes and cleanses the palate. 

The set menu ends with a sweet and creamy strawberry mousse on puff pastry. Again, the contrast of textures adds dimension to the dish, while the well-balanced layering of ingredients like peppery angelica, creamy cashew nut, sweet caramel and slightly sour strawberry sauce makes it a simple yet sophisticated dessert. The portions are generous, but the food is light and will not leave you uncomfortably full.

And if you can’t make it on Valentine’s Day, do make a trip to sample Tribeca’s regular menu. Not to be missed is the slow-braised beef cheek (Bt760), which is slow-cooked in Bourbon for 24 hours with minimal seasoning for a melt-in-your-mouth tenderness and sensational richness. The dish is complemented with freekeh, a cereal food made from green wheat, chanterelle mushrooms from France, hearty maize puree and Bourbon jus.

Another delicious option is duck confit (Bt680) cooked sous-vide at 64 degrees until tender. On the side is polenta, roe oil, and an interesting blackberry gastrique that enhances the poultry’s flavour. 

While you’re waiting for these freshly prepared specialities to be delivered to your table, keep hunger at bay with guacamole and house-made chips with Old Bay spice (Bt225). A blend of herbs and spices, Old Bay Seasoning enhances the creamy guacamole. 

And do make sure to leave room for dessert. We recommend the house cheesecake (Bt150), which is supple and creamy with the luxurious fragrance of milky cheese. The portion is big enough for two but, be warned, it’s unlikely you’ll be willing to share.

 

 

LOVING SPOONFULS

>>The Valentine set menu is Bt1,600 per person and available on February 14 only. Make a reservation at (02) 712 9209. 

>>Tribeca Restobar is in the Nihonmura Mall on Thonglor Soi 13. 

>>It ‘s open daily except Monday for brunch from 9 to 3 and for dinner from 5 to 10pm.

>>More at www.HungryHub.com/Tribeca-Restobar/