Grape with the velvet touch

Once a frail wine grape susceptible to the slightest change in climate and variations in soil composition Pinot Noir is known as Burgundy’s most noble grape. Due to its charming character, Pinot is often described in sensual terms thanks to its remarkably supple, silky texture and erotic earthy aromas.
About 50 years ago, Pinot Noir found a new home in the US state of Oregon and then in California. Today, the fickle grape is also cultivated with success in Central Otago on New Zealand’s South Island, New Zealand.
Last week at the Water Library in Chamchuri Square, four Pinot Noir producers from California came to showcase their very best wines.
At the first table was Jim Clendenen of Au Bon Climat. Clendenen, a graduate of the University of California, Santa Barbara, decided in 1982, after three years as assistant winemaker at Zaca Mesa Winery, to start his own winery in leased quarters. He brought with him five of his Pinot Noir 2007 and one from 2006, from different sites in Santa Maria Valley and his rustic style Pinot paired well with his relaxed, hippie style.
The second table was hosted by David Grave of Saintsbury who, since 1981, has been demonstrating that world-class Pinot Noir is a California mainstay. A winemaker and the co-founder of the winery, he has made Saintsbury into one of America’s successful Pinot Noir producers. Grave brought two vintages, 2007 and 2008 of his three Pinots from Caneros for our investigation. Both were good, especially the 2007 with its fruit character and earthy notes.
At the third table was James Hall of Patz & Hall. The winery was founded in 1988 and combines the shared vision and collective expertise of four friends – Donald Patz, Anne Moses, Heather Patz and Hall. The son of an English professor and wine enthusiast, Hall developed an early appreciation for fine wine during travels with his family to Europe in the late 1960s. His wines use fruit from exceptional family-owned vineyards in the Napa Valley, Russian River Valley, Mendocino County, Sonoma Coast and Santa Lucia Highlands. He brought four Pinots from 2008 and 2009, which were fruit forward typical of cool climate New World style.
The fourth table was hosted Jason Drew of Drew Family Cellars. Drew and wife Molly started the winery in 2000 atop a ridge overlooking Anderson Valley to the east and the Pacific Ocean to the west. He showed six wines from 2008 and 2009 and his Pinots were clean and refreshing, especially the 2009 MacDougal Ranch, Sonoma Coast, which seemed like an organic wine, even though his practice focuses on sustainable cultivation, which is one step before organic management.
Last but not least, Pote Lee, the owner of Water Library, importer of wines and water, hosted a table that included Cherry Pie 2009, Frank Family Pinot Noir 2009 and another two wines from Hirsch Vineyard, Andrea Fault 2009 and West Ridge 2009.
Not only is Pinot Noir food friendly, but it also offers lovers of reds to move away from big, bold and high alcohol wines to a wine that’s delicate, silky and supple.
Cheers!