Dining out in Colonial style

Some Thais are nostalgic for the days when Sathorn Road was still home to a few classical colonial mansions. Peeratos “Beau” Busrathepkul is one of them and he’s chosen to remember that era by opening a colonial style restaurant. A throwback to Sathorn’s glory days during the reign of King Rama VI when beautiful colonial houses set by canals were in vogue, Colonial Bistro, squeezed in between the towering office blocks on Naratiwat Soi 5, is indeed a serene oasis in the busy area.

With chandeliers, whitewashed walls and elegant furniture, Colonial Bistro has a luxurious feel yet the prices of the food are refreshingly low, which explains why the denizens of those towers cannot resist its gravitational pull. The menu features largely contemporary Thai cuisine, plus some Italian and French fare to please the prevalent Thai taste for things Western.

Thais eat Thai food, but they love Western dishes as well, says Beau. He also offers a selection of wines for guests who prefer formal dinners.

Thai dishes dominate. Even without formal training at a cooking institute, Beau, 31, is the brains behind all the Thai and Western recipes concocted here, some of which have been borrowed from his grandmother.

We start by sampling best-selling appetisers Similan’ fried calamari served with special garlic mayo and the mixed mushrooms spicy salad with soft-boiled egg and crispy fish. The squid keeps my mouth watering with the aromas of turmeric, paprika and kaffir lime leaves. The mushroom salad has five kinds of mushrooms including the Japanese and Thai varieties, which are served with pla salid, or fried dried salted fish.

“With this dish, you can eat Thai food without having to ‘climb the ladder’,” Beau says, referring to a Thai idiom meaning “pretend or struggle to understand something of high art”.

Next comes signature quiche ham & bacon, which is made with Parmesan and cheddar. The taste is French, confirms Beau’s public relations manager Rattakorn Mongkolthum, who grew up in France.

We then savour some of the main dishes. First up is fettuccini creamy pitaccio pesto with grilled salmon topped with sweet basil. This is filling with generous portions of both pasta and salmon. The pitaccio pesto is amazing.

My vote goes to the next dish - Thai Style confit de canard served with basil gravy. The duck is braised for two hours with five powders and the skin is delightfully crispy. The duck comes with a powerful dip, made from garlic, fish sauce, chillies, oyster sauce and basil leaves.

People who want something heavy might like Colonial Steak (300g) that’s served with a choice of Thai style namjim jaew sauce.

For dessert, we sample the Treo' Dessert Sampler (toffee pudding, chocolate fondant and strawberry panna cotta) and Crepe Pecan Banana Caramel. The desserts here are not very sweet, says Beau, adding that he likes to keep the sweetness in moderation to allow broader appeal. I find it sweet enough for my liking and finish it off happily. Remember it’s cheaper to order the treo than each of the desserts separately. But whatever you order, save room for the crepe caramel – it’s delicious.

Given the extensive menu that pleases both Thais and Westerners, dishes that, for the most part, cost less than Bt200 and a growing wine selection, Colonial Bistro is simply the best choice for an inexpensive quick filling lunch or full-scale dinner in the area.

THAI ON TOP
<< Colonial Bistro is at 167/2, Naratiwat Soi 5 (also accessible from Sathorn Soi 7).
<< Call (02) 679 0799. Visa Cards only
<< It’s open Monday to Saturday from 11am to 2pm and from 6 to 10pm. Bakery items and soft drinks are available from 2 to 6pm.
<< Parking is available after 6pm during weekdays at Sathorn City Tower all day on Saturdays. Chong Nonsee BTS station is nearby.