By Kupluthai Pungkanon
The Sunday Nation
MODELLED LOOSELY after Milan’s oldest and cherished shopping arcade Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, new Italian restaurant Galleria Milano impresses from the moment you open the door. Those favourable first impressions become even stronger on the first mouthful of food, as the palate savours the natural flavour of organic vegetables and other healthy ingredients finely cooked by one-Michelin star chef Roland Schuller.
With plenty of references to Milan in the decor, Galleria Milano is a pleasant place to kick back.
Located at Mille Malle Building in Soi Sukhumvit 20 in the space formerly occupied by Let Them Eat Cake, the refined ambience evokes a more gracious time. The restaurant’s founder, Antonio Marelli of La Villa Thonglor fame, wanted to propose fine Italian cuisine in an atmosphere reminiscent of a Milanese living room, and this he has achieved in spades thanks to arched window frames, a beautiful ceiling, and a wall taken up by a monitor disguised as a window projecting a view of Giuseppe Mengoni’s historical landmark.
Chef Roland Schuller
Schuller, who earned a Michelin star for Rome’s Ristorante All’Oro, was formerly based in Hong Kong but moved to Thailand to set up an organic farm in Hua Hin.
“It is the responsibility of chef and restaurant to offer high quality meals with healthy ingredients. I am a firm believer in the health properties of vegetables and I avoid ‘toxic’ ingredients like sugar and processed products. I prefer to use only organic ingredients,” he says.
The dishes are cooked in accordance with what’s in season using Mediterranean techniques and recipes to ensure the healthiest nourishment.
Grilled Caesar Salad
Schuller’s tasting menu starts with Grilled Caesar Salad (Bt420), for which he lightly grills the organic vegetables before dressing them with anchovies, crispy bacon and Parmesan cheese. Spaghetti with Mediterranean Red Prawns Capers Oregano (Bt850) follows, with the pasta mixed with fresh tomato sauce to which the juices of a lemon and orange are added. It’s served with baked red prawn imported from Spain.
Spring Chicken Cacciatore
Falkland Seabass with potato Guanciale (Bt900) showcases the fine flavours of this cold-water fish, which is cooked with tomato and miso sauce, while Spring Chicken Cacciatore (Bt880) is made with French spring chicken roasted with rosemary, and served with olives and baby potato.
Steam seabass with red quinoa
Other worthy menu choices include Steamed Seabass with Red Quinoa (Bt900) served in Chinese style dim sum and, for the meat lovers, Beef Tartar with Garlic (Bt900) and Wagyu Rib-Eye Grilled with Grilled Vegetables (priced according to weight). Also popular is the Tortellini Veal Shank with Kale Emulsion.
Schuller has appreciated home-made cooking for as long as he can remember. “When I had the opportunity to take culinary course at the age of 15, I discovered the broad diversity of ingredients and cooking techniques that varied from location to location. This inspired me to travel and learn about different gastronomic cultures. For me, the key factor is to present and highlight the taste of the main ingredient through the cooking process in such a way that it will not affect the natural nutrients in the food.”
For dessert he presents Tiramisu Meringue (Bt220), a delicate delight that blends the tastes of meringue with the rich flavour of tiramisu.
“My food has a different taste because I use organic vegetables, simple cooking methods and very little sauce. The food is very light. People don’t like heavy food anymore. Simple ingredients can also make the food very special. Take the black winter truffle. It is now in season in Europe and I have brought it here for the festive season. It can be sliced and served on top of every dish.” he says.
MEDITERRANEAN BY DESIGN
Galleria Milano is in Mille Malle on Soi Sukhumvit 20. Its open daily from 11.30 to 2 and again from 6 to 11.
Book a table at (02) 663 4988 or visit www.GalleriaMilanoRestaurant.com.