Cason's contemporary creations

Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok continues to make news after the controversial visit earlier this month by Prime Minister Yingluck Shinawatra who attended a private meeting with some businessmen instead of being present at a parliamentary session.

While her secret visit to the seventh floor of the hotel has not yet clarified and outsiders are not allowed to enter, there’s a not-so-secret place on the ground floor that’s happy to welcome everyone, especially those bringing their appetites along.

In operation for 14 years, the classy but friendly Biscotti Italian restaurant serves lunch and dinner in a contemporary setting. The open kitchen is the main focus with diners observing the chefs at work while the wood-fired oven and wine racks enhance the authentic yet modern ambience. The interior is also set off by alternately clothed, wood and marble tables spread over on two levels, seating a total of 100 guests.

Biscotti recently welcomed chef Daniele Cason, a native of Rome, who’s fresh from the kitchens of the First Residence of the Four Seasons Hotel in Cairo. Now in his early 30s, the chef has changed upwards of two-thirds of the menu, keeping simplicity as a priority together with high quality ingredients and a modern touch.

His creations begin with trio of Tasmanian salmon (Bt390) – the fish served tartar, smoked and grilled and with green olive, roasted tomato and sour creme fraiche dips. There’s no rule on dipping: just choose the sauce you like and enjoy.

Cason’s traditional Italian Caprese comes in an impressive presentation. His version of this simple salad made of sliced fresh mozzarella, tomatoes and fresh basil, arrives in a towering style with alternate layers of mozzarella and Cuore di Bue tomatoes standing on a bed of pesto sauce and finished with a sprinkle of sea salt and extra virgin olive oil. It goes for Bt590.

The big tomato Cuore di Bue is simply Italian for the heart of ox and boasts dense flesh and lustrous, orange-red skin with few seeds. It’s naturally sweet with an intense flavour that goes perfectly with the soft buffalo cheese that comes from Luigi Guffanti, one of the best mozzarella suppliers in Italy.

I’m not a cheese lover, but the home-made ravioli stuffed with taleggio cheese and finished with porcini mushroom, tomato and majoram is truly delectable thanks to its pleasant herbal aroma. It’s priced from Bt470 to Bt520.

The main dish is char-grilled, 150-day grain-fed Australian Angus tenderloin and costs Bt1,700 for 160 grams. It’s grilled then braised for a total of 15 minutes to ensure a juicy and tender texture. It’s served with mushroom risotto, snow peas and green peppercorn sauce with a hint of brandy.

For dessert, the Coppa Gelato Misa is served in a tall glass for Bt250 with alternate layers of chocolate, vanilla, tiramisu, home-made Gianduja ice cream with chocolate sauce, meringues and walnuts.

Biscotti also offers an express lunch with your choice of two or three courses for Bt740 and Bt790 respectively. It generally takes about 40 minutes, less if you ask. The dishes are baby scallop risotto with tomato and basil, chicken cotoletta Milanese with rocket salad and shallot confit and warm panettone with rum raisin ice cream.

If you don’t want to go for a full lunch, just choose to enjoy the all-you-can-eat antipasti for Bt680. The antipasti table provides a variety of choices that guarantee to please your appetite.
Among them are smoked salmon and chicken breast, seared tuna, cured pork loin and New Zealand mussels that pair perfectly with grilled zucchini, grilled pepper and rocket or mixed salad.

But the must that fresh from the wood-fried oven is focaccia – an all-time favourite of Biscotti regulars. The thick and soft layer of dough is filled with mascarpone and mozzarella, seasoned with truffle oil and salt and topped with spring onions and grated parmesan.

Vegetarian appetisers, soups, risottos, pizza and pasta and dessert are also available a la carte.

ROME REPAST
>>> Biscotti is at Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok on Rajdamri Road. It’s open daily for lunch from 11.30am to 2.30pm and for dinner from 6 to 10.30pm. Call (02) 126 8866 extensions 1229 and 1230.