Top tapas on the quayside

Eating at the River City shopping complex was getting a little dreary, even with the undeniable majesty of the Chao Phraya so close, but a sophisticated facelift has made things fresh and fun again.

The variety of new restaurants provides a global culinary tour, but the outstanding destination is Pimienta, which specialises in Spanish cuisine.

Pimienta – the name means “pepper” – has a homey al fresco dining area adorned with plants and each night there are acoustic and jazz bands.

The spacious indoor dining room features Moroccan decor, complete with turquoise floor and a crystal chandelier. There are leather chesterfields, lathe-shaped chairs and pedestal tables, and large windows overlooking the river.

By contrast, the ceiling suggests an open, industrial look with painted and exposed concrete and plenum.

The bar with its beautifully carved wooden panels is a great place to socialise over an aperitif or nestle amid after-dinner drinks. One of the barman’s newest creations is Vodka Passion Fruit (Bt200), tangy with lemon juice and salt on the rim of the glass.

“Our restaurant is inspired by the south of Spain, with its mix of European and Moroccan influences,” says co-owner Chawalit Ratanachinakorn.

“Spanish food is different from that of other European countries because it’s a Mediterranean cuisine, mixed with the fragrant spices and seasonings of the African Moors. The taste is exciting – strong and spicy, not mild and boring.”

Though the restaurant has only been open for six months, Chawalit is no newcomer to the business. He and his partners also run a popular bar in Phuket called Pimiento – the “o” at the end rather than an “a” denotes a bell pepper.

Spain is known for tapas and Pimienta has many to choose from. It’s best to start with home-cured salmon with dill mayonnaise on a bed of toast (Bt110), seafood croquettes with cream filling (Bt95), fried calamari dusted with dried shrimps (Bt130), and delightful home-made chicken-liver pate on toast (Bt95).

“Spanish-style tapas, I think, match the Thai lifestyle,” Chawalit observes. “Thais generally love titbits – trying a variety of foods in small portions and different tastes rather than filling up on one big plate.”

To sample all the available cold cuts, order the Mixed Platter (Bt490), which includes chorizo (pork) sausage, jamon serrano (white ham) and premium-grade jamon iberico from free-range Iberian pigs. If you already have a preference, just order a 30-gram plate of any kind of meat – Bt490 for the iberico, Bt390 for the serrano and Bt290 for the chorizo.

Another intriguing starter is the Salad of Duck Confit with poached apricots, serrano ham, quail egg, sun-dried tomatoes and beetroot with mixed greens for Bt295. The duck meat is shredded and well-rounded in flavour thanks to the saltiness of the confit and ham, the sweetness of the fruit and the crispness of the greens.

“We have a vegetable supplier in Chiang Mai bringing us fresh greens every day,” Chawalit says, adding that wild rocket lettuce is used in the salads – “slightly spicy but much more aromatic”.

By way of pasta, crab ravioli (Bt295) is a must-try. It’s served on a bed of sauteed spinach and accompanied by roasted scallops, prawns and grilled chorizo and topped with tomato cream.
Another pleasing dish is Australian rack of lamb with roasted sweet peppers, aubergine, mint and rosemary bearnaise sauce (Bt745).

Every good Spanish restaurant has its own version of the comfort food paella. At Pimienta the traditional saffron-flavoured fried rice (Bt445) is al dente with mussels, clams, calamari, prawns and garlic.

For dessert, you can get zesty with a Mango and Passion Fruit Tart or try the Sticky Toffy Pudding with Scotch Butter Sauce – each is Bt150. They are equally pleasing.

PAELLA PROUD
>>> Pimienta Tapas Bar & Restaurant is on the ground floor of River City on Yota Road, next to the Si Phaya Pier.
It’s open daily from 11am to midnight.
Make reservations at (02) 639 1865 or|  www.PimientaRivercity.com.