Don't miss the roasted ham, honey

FROM A glittering wine bar in colourful vibes, Wine Me Up had been transformed into a relaxing bistro and is now called Twist. Located on the third floor of the Seen Space mall on Thonglor Soi 13, it now has a completely changed interior and it’s earning more than a few wolf whistles. 

Gone are the glittering mosaics of the main bar, the blue rococo velvet chairs and comfy sofas around the edges, and the translucent curtains so ideal for night owls. In their place is an “open plan” with natural lighting, windows for walls, softwood furnishings and pale decor for all-day dining. 

What had been a range of Italian food is now substituted with modern European and Mediterranean “twists” – and hence the new name. 

“From black tones, we completely changed to white and light for a more casual feel,” says manager David Dubson. “It’s a big change: People can say, ‘Wow!’

“Some people might feel uncomfortable dining in a wine bar during the daytime, but the total change to a cosy and warm bistro gives the place a comfortable and inviting ambience for all-day visits.

“The trends in food are changing too,” Dubson points out. “People prefer something fresh, light, healthy and home-made, and it’s nice to have Mediterranean-inspired dishes to fit their needs, with ingredients like tomatoes, rocket lettuce, olive oil and seasonal fruits. The food is quite rustic, simple, flexible and clean. We want to challenge the misperception that healthy food is tasteless.”

 

 

Twist offers a wide choice of appetisers, salads, pastas, main courses and desserts, plus a brunch menu from 11am to 5pm. The drinks menu has a good variety of home-made iced yoghurt drinks, freshly squeezed fruit juices, crafted teas and coffees as well as beer and ciders from micro-breweries in Britain, Spain and Belgium. 

And there’s a lovely al-fresco dining area that’s industrial chic, great for chilling out at the end of the day.

 A good start to any meal is Blueberry Beets (Bt280), which carries varied but well-balanced textures. The beetroot is moist and retains its natural taste thanks to 12-hour sous-vide cooking, while toasted mixed nuts are wonderfully crunchy. The pureed beetroot, feta cheese, orange slices and rocket are favourable when mixed with cold borscht and pureed blueberry sauce.

“A range of dishes use market-bought ingredients,” says chef 

 Voravut Santithamsakul. “We focus on light cooking methods, using olive oil as the main base and no trans-fats. Our dishes aren’t so heavy that they make you feel totally stuffed. Eating moderately is good for the health.”

Equally tempting is the Rocket Artisan Honey-roasted Ham Salad (Bt380). Instead of using just the conventional balsamic vinegar, Voravut opts for pomegranate “molasses”. He boils pomegranate juice to render thick syrup, then mixes in olive oil and balsamic. It’s served with smoked ham, fresh pomegranate, sun-dried tomatoes, apricots and figs with a garnish of Parmesan cheese. This is a real treat any time of the day.

The Crab Fettuccini (Bt420) is sure to please the Thai palette. The home-made noodles are cooked al dente with tomato ragout, crabmeat and herbs. 

Next up is one of the best-selling dishes: the Molasses-glazed Pork Chop (Bt450). The chop is marinated in salted water and dried herbs for a day to make it tender and flavoursome. It’s glazed and charcoal-grilled to stay moist inside with a succulent crust, and served with home-made mustard sauce with a right combination of sweet and salty. Served on the side are mashed potatoes that are buttery and creamy with the slightly bitter tang of rocket lettuce and deep-fried leek. 

The 12-Hour Marinated Harissa Chicken (Bt450) is certainly worth a mere 30-minute wait. It arrives with an appetite-whetting fragrance. Half an organically raised chicken is marinated in tzatziki, harissa and chili Sriracha sauces for 12 hours and then roasted for 30 minutes. It’s served with steamed greens.

Do keep room for dessert, because the Volcano Meringue Pie (Bt285) is a champion of the taste buds. The crumbly cheesecake pie is topped with meringue and berry compote and served with lemon curd and a lemon slice. The result is a pleasant crunch and sweet-and-sour contrast. 

Good options for beverages to cool down are the House Blend Red Tea Float (Bt165) – a glass of iced Thai tea and vanilla ice cream – and the Pop Eye (Bt175), which is a smoothie blend of strawberry, mango, banana, Spinach, spirulina and home-made yoghurt. 

 

TWIST AND SHOUT

>>> Twist is on the third floor of the Seen Space mall on Thonglor Soi 13, off Sukhumvit Soi 55. 

>>> It’s open daily from 11 to 11. 

>>> Call (02) 185 2455 or visit the “twistbangkok” page on Facebook.