Drama in the dressing

FASHION DESIGNERS have a reputation for being dreamy and slightly impractical when it comes to the business side of things but Sirichai Daharanont, founder of Theatre, is completely the opposite. “Everything must be sold,” he tells XP firmly on the sidelines of a recent fashion show organised to mark his brand’s 30th anniversary.
He also has a different approach to design from others of his ilk, preferring to drape his fabric on a mannequin before putting pen to paper.
“I like to experiment with the materials first, then think hard about how to make it the least wasteful while adding to its value. Only then do I consider the most important question: will this look sell? Some designs are completed in a very short time while others seem to go on for ever,” he laughs.
“Since I like to leave nothing empty in the design, I’ll keep decorating or embroidering if I see there is space. That’s why my staff hates me! They think the look is already good but I want to add more.
The adding, of course, is what makes Theatre’s designs so unique. Indeed some of them are limited to just one or two pieces depending on the material chosen.
“I like to walk around and shop for the materials myself. I don’t mind if the shopkeepers have only a few metres of a particular cloth. If I like it, I’ll buy it. After all, I never know when I might use it. Sometime these shorter lengths can be perfect as a trim. That’s my technique and my style. I tend to do a total look. For example, if the top is sleeveless, I want matching gloves. For nice trousers, I like good shoes. The accessories should always match. I use a lot of fabric for one collection, I don’t emphasis prints but the silhouette, draping and tailoring, which are the signature of the brand,” the designer says.
The collection finished, Sirichai then busies himself thinking of the theme for his runway show, which are always dramatic and reflect the brand’s name.
The name “Theatre”, he explains, is derived from his love for dramatic art, movies and travels. He intends his designs as wearable creative artworks but doesn’t think of the showcase before creating them.
“I can play with many different type of stories. They can be set in the past, present or future. Watching a fashion show should be fun and I think it is also what makes the brand strong. The first 10 years I spent a lot of time building brand awareness. It was easier back then as there were not many local fashion brands During Theatre’s second decade, I organised fashion shows to get new customers and attract the younger generation while in its third decade. Theatre has been able to relax a bit and enjoy the journey. The only problem that we have is that because our shows are not pure fashion, the expectations are higher,” he continues. For the recent anniversary show, “3:30 A Journey Through the Continents”, Sirichai collaborated with L’Optimum Cool Boy’s Club. Held at Siam Center, it took the spectator on a journey along the “silk roads” from China to India and on to the Mediterranean, showcasing 30 romantic yet totally masculine looks.
Sirichai also keeps his marketing simple, selling his outfits from his sole boutique and insisting that he has no plans to expand.
“I think it’s important for the brand to have its own station, not a corner in a department store. My big advantage is that the pricing is reasonable. Our costs reflect the true cost of living. We do not have to pay the department store or advertise.
While some might see Theatre’s runway shows as over the top, there’s no doubt that its outfits are unique, fashionable, timeless and, yes, affordable too.