Char’s vista of delights

BANGKOK HAS never been short of fine restaurants, and now, adding to the sophisticated throng, is Char, perched on the 25th floor of Hotel Indigo Bangkok, where the grilled dishes are hearty, delicious and contemporary and the view is sublime. 

Just opened in June, Bangkok’s Char arrived following the success of the original Char at Hotel Indigo Shanghai on the Bund. Its younger sister is more casual in setting but matches the same high standards and at reasonable prices. 

Spacious and with a classy opulence that exudes Art Deco flair, Char lends itself to any type of gathering, whether it’s a party with friends, a family feast or a romantic dinner for two. The floor plan is open, but there are hidden corners and curves for extra privacy as well as ample spaces that can be closed off for parties.

The floor-to-ceiling windows give what is probably the highest restaurant on Wireless Road a gorgeous, unobstructed view of the cityscape. Be there in time for sunset and you’re rewarded with a magnificent transformation in the colours of the sky as the skyscrapers gradually light up all around. 

A magnificent way to start a meal is with Hokkaido Scallops (Bt560), a hearty dish that nevertheless helps whet the appetite for more. The scallops are lightly seared and boast a faint smoky aroma. They’re served with tomato and ripe mango concasse that gently soothes the richness of the seafood. Shards of lime with zest left on add tartness and brighten the dish, making it very tantalising and well balanced.

Another appealing starter is Lobster Ravioli (Bt1,020), in which handsome chunks of Canadian lobster are enlivened with peppery arabbiata sauce stacked with the other ingredients in “open ravioli”, so you still get the satisfaction of sinking your teeth into sizeable rather than finely chopped pieces of shellfish. This dish is quite rich, but not overwhelmingly so thanks to the refreshing sweet basil in the mix.

The choice for the main course really has to be steak – in this case perfectly grilled Darling Downs Waygu from Australia. This beef was the Grand Champion at this year’s Royal Queensland Food and Wine Show, winning the John Kilroy Cha Cha Char prize. 

We opt for 300-gram Rump Steak (Bt1,250) of Darling Downs Wagyu with a “marble score” of nine, which is considered excellent. The meat is grilled over an open flame with minimal seasoning, preserving the natural aroma and texture. Lean and red, the steak is succulent, tender and slightly sweet with strong gamy aroma – a hearty choice for beef lovers. It comes with a simple side of grilled vegetables, black-peppercorn sauce and mashed potatoes. 

If that can’t tempt you, Char has several fish and seafood main dishes, too.

One must-try is North Pacific Black Cod Steak (Bt710) – a 200-gram fillet lightly marinated in soy sauce, cooked slowly and served on a bed of tomato and coriander salsa. The fish is firm but tender, fatty but not at all greasy, with a hint of smokiness. With this you have a choice of lemon beurre blanc for a more Western flair or spicy tamarind for that Asian kick. 

The dessert menu can’t be ignored, especially when it includes an utterly rich and decadent Banana Cheesecake (Bt310), the serving big enough for two. It arrives with tangy lime cream and berry compote. Another luscious choice is Tiramisu Deconstructed (Bt280), which gets its name from the way all the components are layered up so you can see them in all their lip-smacking glory. 

  

HIGH END DINING

>>Char is on the 25th floor of Hotel Indigo Bangkok on Wireless Road.

>> It’s open daily from 6pm to 1am.

>> Make reservations at |(02) 207 4999.