Faith in flowers

Think of Bang Phli and your mind’s eye will almost certainly zoom in on industrial estates, soulless concrete blocks, karaoke bars and racing gangs looking for trouble. But the area is also home to some very peaceful spots not to mention culture and for the next three days and nights, you can enjoy some traditional festive moments at Wat Bang Phli Yai and along Khlong Samrong, the canal that criss-crosses the plain of this Samut Prakan district. 

From today until Friday, the riverside communities around Wat Bang Phli Yai revel in floral beauty as the locals celebrate the Lotus Receiving Festival. The festival marks the end of the three-month-long Buddhist retreat during which fun and festive activities are prohibited. 

The Lotus Festival dates back to the days when the river was a focal point of daily life. It takes place around Wat Bang Phli Yai, also known as Wat Luang Phor To, and the old marketplace on the Samrong Canal.

Lotus fields covered most of this vast wetland a century ago, before the industrial and housing estates moved in and destroyed its natural soul. Every October, the farmers and traders would select the finest lotus flowers to honour the Luang Phor To Buddha. The lotus fields have mostly been cleared but religious beliefs have not been eroded and the Luang Phor To Buddha is still honoured every October with piles of blooms.

The festival draws thousands of devotees. As the sun rises on October 18 – one day before the full moon – the people will line the banks of the canal tossing lotuses onto a passing boat carrying a replica of the sacred statue.

It tends to be a bit of a hit-or-miss affair because there are always too many people trying to throw the lotuses into one boat.

People are everywhere, on the small towpath as well on the wooden bridges over the canal. You don't walk, you just go with the flow, as the crowd keeps pushing you ahead.

On both sides of the canal, chemistry reacts too, as the merit-making ceremony is also a good time for romance to blossom.

“Many young men try to pick up the lotuses from beautiful women,” notes a fish farmer who lives behind Suvarnabhumi Airport, recalling her younger days around Bang Phli.

“If you receive a flower from the girl, there’s a chance to win her heart. She’s probably your soulmate.”

Tucked away on Bangkok's eastern outskirts, Bang Phli was once home to Chinese, Thais and Mon-speaking communities – people who made their living along the canal.

Now home instead to thousands of factories, the young men and women who work in these industrial estates have the chance to spend three days and nights enjoying phleng rua folk music, old-time games like saba thoi, saba bon as well as a tug-of-war, beauty contests, an eating contest and boat show and races.

The highlight is the Light & Sound cultural show, which attempts to bring back the scent of bygone days when canal life, religion and the community lived in harmony.

And, of course, this being a festival, there’s plenty of food including traditional desserts, curries and barbecued seafood.

 

THROW YOUR FLOWER

The Lotus Receiving Festival with its merit-making ceremonies by day and entertainment by night continues until Friday. The Lotus Receiving Festival takes place on Friday from 7am with the float of the Big Buddha travelling along the canal. The temple is a short walk from the Big C store on Theparak Road.