Tough at the top

Ghoulies and ghosties of yesteryear return to Bangkok's famed Wat Saket this week as the much-loved two-headed woman, her mermaid pal and the house haunted by the intestine-dangling "kra-sue" spirit take up their places at the Golden Mount Temple Fair.

Running through Saturday night, the annual bash is simple, cheap and cunning but always entertaining and celebrates a relic of the Lord Buddha housed at the top of the Golden Mount.

"A woman with two heads! A little mermaid and her fish tail!" the show-master often shouts, beckoning the crowds to his freak show. "Spare just Bt10 and see them live here."

Outside the venue, you will see a poster of a good-looking mermaid who looks very much like sexy actress Phatcharapha "Aum" Chaichua. Your brain tells you it's a trap but the heart inevitably wins out and you happily part with Bt10 to see if Aum really is dressed up like a fish.

In fact, the mermaid in question probably looks more like a serious victim of insomnia after three nights of poor sleep. As the cheerful spectators poke their heads around the curtain, the mermaid sits half-sleeping behind her fish tail. But what about the bare breasts promised in the poster? Sorry, that one you need to check out for yourselves! 

The two-headed woman is much more absurd yet strangely amusing - and I have no intention of spilling the beans. Spend your own Bt10 - it’s worth it - and see it with your own eyes.

Freak shows aside, the annual temple fair serves up a large dose of sweet nostalgia.

For a cheap thrill, you can queue up with young college students for a ride on the old-fashioned Ferris wheel or merry-go-round.

There are also a few stalls with popguns, the old-fashioned kind that uses a cork from fish-sauce bottle.

"You can aim at any doll out there," a stall holder will tell you, knowing the challenge will appeal to the guys wanting to impress the ladies on their arms. If you're sharp enough to knock the doll off the shelf, the doll is yours."

Like many who believe they’re sharp enough, I spend Bt200 on the corks only to leave the shooting range empty-handed. There's something about the gun … or perhaps it’s the dolls!

Then, there's the "Girls in the Bucket" challenge - where you can knock them off the benches (if you're good enough). The idea is simple. A cute girl sits on the bench over the huge bucket of water, and your aim is to topple her into the bucket by trying to hit the swing arm with the ball. Chances are very slim though and yes, the ball does costs you money. 

The Golden Mount, Phu Khao Thong in Thai, is a steep hill inside Wat Saket compound. 

Probably the highest hill in Bangkok, the mount is not a natural outcrop but was created in the 19th century during the reign of King Rama III to support the pagoda, which houses a Buddha relic from India, before becoming popular among the tourists.

Every November, Wat Saket hosts a festival that includes a beautiful candlelight procession up Phu Khao Thong.

Everyone visiting the temple fair at Wat Saket, braves the steep path to the top of Golden Mount.

Few, however, are prepared for the crowds. Together with the throngs of festival-goers, I spend an hour getting to the top.

But the time spent is worth it. 

Half-wrapped by a huge, red robe, the pagoda looks more beautiful at night, especially when illuminated by beams of light. From here, I can see the Grand Palace glowing in the distance. Every second, the sound of a bell lingers briefly in the air.

Looking straight down, the illuminated circular path looks like a huge Ring of Fire. I stop for a while and try to figure out where the freak show and the mermaid are located. From this distance, it's impossible to tell.

 

HIGHEST POINT

<The Golden Mount temple fair runs until Saturday. The easiest way of getting there is by Skytrain to National Stadium station then by tuk-tuk or taxi to the temple.