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HEAVY WOOLLEN COATS unbuttoned to reveal sexy silk and chiffon dresses, New York Fashion Week is indulging women of style with a double-layered look for autumn-winter 2014. The highlights of Day 2 were Jason Wu, the precocious New York-trained designer and Michelle Obama favourite, San Francisco’s Peter Som and Spanish luxury label Pedro del Hierro.
Top American model Karlie Kloss closed out Wu’s show in the heart of Soho, sashaying down the runway in a stunning evening dress of velvet amethyst under an oversized, black alpaca coat.
“I liked this idea, this cosiness, the outerwear, and when it’s revealed, it’s the most beautiful little silk dress underneath tied together by spaghetti straps,” Wu enthused backstage.
Under furs of silver fox or racoon, puffy parkas in angora or embroidered astrakhan, there were flashes of bare shoulders or skilfully structured backs of a black or grey crepe satin dress.
“There is definitely sex in it,” said Wu. “I thought it was really appealing right now, clothing that’s so utterly feminine and sophisticated and confident and sexy.”
The designer, who made his ready-to-wear collection debut in 2007, was inspired by sporty shapes but wanted to make his clothes luxurious. He also explained how he had used different textures for something “a bit romantic” about his collection: “Mohair, cashmere, embroideries, mink – you name it, but in a very subtle way.”
Over at Som, a one-time designer at American fashion house Bill Blass, the designer said his woman of 2014 was “sexy, she's confident and she’s having fun”.
He showed off military overcoats in navy blue or patterned wool and camel wool jackets layered over a leopard goatskin dress or a corset chiffon dress with bright orange ostrich feathers. His inspiration was a “kind of ’60s London meets ’70s Paris, Jane Birkin”.
New York is the first to unveil the industry’s autumn-winter collections, with 300 catwalk presentations ending today, before the gear heads to London, Paris and Milan.
 Saturday witnessed New York’s first couture catwalk show. Alexander Wang, creative director of Balenciaga, unveiled his hotly anticipated collection at the same Brooklyn Naval Yard venue chosen by Lady Gaga for her recent album launch.
Wang turned the Duggal Greenhouse into a futuristic set with metallic pillars and a rotating stage to show off his androgynous collection.
A highlight of his work was the use of heat-activated fabric that changed from black to colour when exposed to warm temperature.
The female models, with their hair gelled and combed over to mimic male haircuts, powered down the runway in sharp, tailored coats and suits that had angular lines and blocks of colour.
Outfits on display included outerwear covered in pockets, woollens with 3D applique squares that seemed to mimic dials on a machine, tops with buckles on cuffs, and black and brown leather |shirts.
There were also leather boots rising to mid-thigh that were tight around the foot but open in the back. The tomboy androgynous look was emphasised by models with shaved eyebrows, some of them carrying purses reminiscent of a carpenter’s tool belt.
On Sunday it looked like the sky was the limit for Victoria Beckham, the Spice Girl turned acclaimed designer who has big dreams for the US after unveiling her latest catwalk collection.
Proud husband and retired football star David sat front row with sons Brooklyn, 14, Romeo, 11, Cruz, 8, looking elegant with slicked-back hair, and bouncing two-year-old Harper on his knee.
“I just wanted them to see what I do,” Victoria said backstage. “The boys have never been to a show before. For them to see that Mummy works and Daddy works is a very positive message.”
In immaculate white surroundings, Beckham showcased an elegant and sophisticated collection dominated by floor-length dresses, pleats, spectacular naked backs and careful structuring.
Gold chains picked out details here and there, while black and white were the dominant colours. “There is a lot more design details this season and also we are focusing on evening,” said the 39-year-old. “There is an element of surprise in every single piece.”
Beckham, who unveiled her first collection in 2008, has won plaudits for her attention to detail and beautifully crafted, feminine outfits that can be worn during the day and evening.
She explained that her autumn-winter line had a greater attention to eveningwear and to design details. “Each season, the more people understand me and understand my brand, the more I can push it a little bit, and I enjoy doing that.
“I love the long beautiful feminine skirts, with a more masculine trouser underneath it. I love long lean silhouettes and the fact that they are beautifully structured.”