Flavours of the orient

INDIAN FOOD isn’t always about curry just as an Indian restaurant isn’t always all flocked wallpaper and brass. In fact, Charcoal Tandoor Grill & Mixology, the newly opened Indian steakhouse on Sukhumvit Soi 11, with its industrial chic design, doesn’t even have an Indian vibe.

At least, not until you take a closer look. Glass jars filled with herbs and spices, both common and rare, line one wall forming a unique spice library. Replicas of the world-famous Mumbai lunch boxes fill the other. Chill-out Bollywood house and current international hits hum softly throughout the premises and when you step inside the restroom, you’ll be blown away by the hectic, booming sound of India’s city streets. 

Rather than go straight to your table, take time to relax at the bar with one of the Indian-inspired craft cocktails designed by famed mixologist Joseph Boroski. Delivered to you “at your gate, sealed in a duty free bag” is the New Delhi Duty Free (Bt300), a refreshingly fruity concoction that comprises muddled ripe mango, spiced honey, white rum, lime juice and watermelon soda. For a more intense Indian flavour, get a Mystic Tea Pot (Bt300) where Assam tea-infused gin, cardamom, orgeat syrup, passion fruit and lime juice are blended then served in a brass tea pot, accompanied by Indian biscuits. 

From India’s northwestern frontier, Charcoal brings classic cuisine to the modern metropolis. Here, the kebabs are king. Pulled off the appetisers menu and brought centre stage, these skewers of tender meat, vegetables and paneer are cooked to perfection in authentic clay ovens. Modern-day kebabs in India trace their origin to the influences of the Mughlai cuisine. While kebabs in India are more or less similar to most other kebab preparations, they boast a distinct taste and texture, thanks to the crafty use of Indian spices.

Once you’re settled at the table and have donned the bib so essential to protecting your finery, the kitchen will serve you complimentary savoury papadum with mint, mango chilli and Kolkata mustard sauces, while you ponder what to order. 

 Grilled, marinated protein may sound heavy but in fact, it is not too filling. Kick start your appetite with paneer tikka or tandoor malai broccoli (both Bt350) where fresh cottage cheese and florets of fresh broccoli are marinated in cream, mild spices and grilled in the tandoor until the outside is golden. Or if you fancy something more substantial, order the Charcoal scallops (Bt750) where premium scallops are tenderly grilled with mild Indian spices, then served with coriander and mango sauce. The spice goes surprisingly well with the pungent smell of the scallop and enhances the typically bland flesh without overpowering the dish. 

For the main course, you can choose from chicken, fish and seafood or lamb – in fact anything except pork and beef. Recommended is a trio of tandoori jhinga prawns (Bt850). Here fresh Phuket jumbo prawns are marinated in lime and garam seed solution to clean then doused in a mix of spices, yoghurt, red chilli and turmeric before being grilled in their shells to add a smoky fragrance. The result is tender and sweet prawn cooked to perfection with just the right amount of spice. 

Another must-try is the chicken biryani (small Bt550, large for Bt900). Succulent spring chicken and basmati rice suffused with Indian spices are sealed and slow-cooked in a clay pot to retain all the fragrances and tenderness of the meat. The dish comes with garlic and spice yoghurt. 

Not only is the tandoor perfect for grilling meat, it is also excellent for baking naan. Order a crispy pudina parantha drizzled with dried mint (Bt100) or the supple and soft white flour turrah naan (Bt100) to go with dal Charcoal (Bt200), the restaurant’s only curry, where whole urad lentils, tomato, ginger and garlic are slow cooked overnight on the dying embers of the tandoor. Dip your bread in the creamy, rich and slightly smoky sauce to complete the meal.

Take a break at this point certainly but don’t leave without dessert. Recommended are the gulab jamun (Bt150) and the refreshingly creamy phirni (Bt200). Rasmalai (Bt150) is also available for those who enjoy cottage cheese and saffron flavoured milk. 

 

 

SPICE IS NICE

>>Charcoal Tandoor Grill & Mixology is on the fifth floor of Fraser Suites Hotel on Sukhumvit Soi 11. It’s open daily from 6pm till midnight.

>>Reservations are recommended. |Call (089) 307 1111.

>>Find out more at www.CharcoalBKK.com.