Cultures and complexities

FORMERLY HOME to the well-known French restaurant D’Sens, Dusit Thani Bangkok’s rooftop venue is enjoying a new incarnation as the Pacific coast-inspired 22 Kitchen and Bar. 

Gone are the starched white tablecloths and other fine-dining trappings. In their place are bright turquoise furnishings, reclaimed wood tabletops with metallic accents plus oak barrels, pebbles and coral that give off a distinct coastal vibe.

Seating 100 guests in the main section, 22 Kitchen also has 40 seats in the bar area as well as four private rooms that can accommodate eight to 16 people each. Floor to ceiling windows offer a stunning view of Lumpini Park and the Bangkok skyline.

Manning the kitchen is Hawaiian chef Nikolas Ramirez and he demonstrates his mix of cultural roots through flavours that stretch from Mexico, Hawaii and Peru to Japan and South Korea. 

“As a chef, I have to honour myself. I can’t cook French food like a French chef. I’m a Hawaiian native and my dad is Mexican. I grew up with Asian-influenced foods of Korea, Chinese and Japan and I’ve lived in California for a long time. These things just go together for me and I cook what I know,” says Ramirez who formerly worked as chef de cuisine at El Encanto by Orient Express in Santa Barbara. 

The Japanese, Chinese, Korean, Peruvian and Portuguese immigrant communities in Hawaii all bring their influences to bear on his dishes, which are available as both tapas-style bites for casual dining and as a platter for sharing. 

His combinations of ingredients and spices are interesting and include scallop carpacio with Korean chilli paste sambal, pumpkin stew with Peruvian quinoa, and confit pork with Chinese style bao buns.

The first dish to arrive at our table is Sunny-side up Scallops with Spicy Aioli and Ponzu (Bt280) – an Italian classic spiced up with sambal in the aioli. 

Next up is Two Ramen Burger Sliders with Katsu Aioli (Bt300) where the traditional burger bun is replaced by fried ramen noodles. Diners can opt for wagyu beef or pork marinated in katsu sauce. Both go well with the pickled cucumber and cabbage.

For the Hawaiian-style dish Ahi Poke Salad (Bt450), Ramirez stuffs an avocado with raw yellow fin tuna mixed with seaweed marinated cucumber, toasted pine nuts, sesame crackling, Hawaiian salt, sambal, yuzu and soy sauce emulsion. 

Our main course is Slow Cooked Duck (Bt850), which is cooked sous vide then served with dark beer reduction, grilled pear with thyme, ravioli-shaped Hawaiian heart of palm and watercress mustard.

A favourite with customers is Marine Lobster with Ramen Gnocchi and Miso-ginger Tea (Bt2,400 for a whole/Bt1,250 for half). The lobster is slightly steamed before being grilled then immersed in a miso and ginger tea soup. Instead of serving it with Japanese ramen, he opts for Italian gnocchi, peas and lobster cookies. 

Desserts also boast a creative twist and complex flavours. Worth trying are the Dark Chocolate Mousse (Bt200) served with toasted marshmallow and graham cracker crumble, and Mango Bonbons (Bt280) made with mango sorbet, macaroon and yoghurt.

If alcohol isn’t your thing, there’s a range of mocktails priced from Bt220 to Bt240. The Rosemary Lychee Soda Punch is made with the juices of orange and pomegranate and rosemary-infused syrup topped with lychee soda. Then there are the Butterfly Pea Mojito which melds lime, sugar, mint and soda and butterfly pea juice, and the Hazelnut Passion Fruit Alco-free Smash – a concoction of passion fruit juice, hazelnut-infused syrup and soda.

Every Friday throughout this month, diners can enjoy the vibrant colours and flavours from the Polynesian paradise with the “Friday Night Luau” featuring live Hawaiian performances starting at 7pm alongside a Hawaiian set menu priced at Bt1,750 per person.

 

ALOHA  BANGKOK

22 Kitchen and Bar is on the 22nd floor of Dusit Bangkok Hotel on Silom Road. The bar is open daily from 4pm to midnight and dinner is served from 6 to 10pm. 

Call (02) 200 9000 extension 2345 or visit www.Dusit.com/dtbk.