Brewing up a storm
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The cafe culture takes off in urban
On a cold, grey and windy day in Thimphu, there are few places better to be than a warm and cheerfully lit cafe and that’s exactly where dozens of people, both young and old, have headed on this chilly January morning.
Once virtually unknown in the Bhutanese capital, today cafes and coffee shops are on just about every street, the poster children of the new urban culture.
Sonam Tshomo and Tshering Choden are busy serving customers at Yummies in the heart of Thimphu city. The two graduates decided to open a cafe right after finishing university rather than look for a job. Passionate about coffee and good food, the two friends decided to share their love with others.
This morning, the pair is busy preparing the day’s menu with their staff. One is chopping the vegetables, the other is baking pastries. “Muffins,” Sonam Tshomo says, “go well with coffee”.
And the customers don’t stop coming. The first orders coffee with hoentey (dumpling), a curious combination, but one which Yummies is proud to offer.
Sonam Tshomo, who sits behind the counter, says that with the number of graduates increasing by the year, the best option for young people is to start a business of their own instead of vying for a job in the civil service.
“We realised that opening a cafe was by far a better option. You’re your own boss and can pursue your interests,” says Sonam Tshomo. “I don’t regret the decision one bit.”
Yummies opened its doors in December 2014.
“It’s mainly due to Western influence and exposure to different cultures that many Bhutanese have embraced the cafe culture,” Sonam Tshomo says.
“People are comfortable hanging out in the cafe with their friends, family and loved ones. It’s the best place to unwind after a tiring day.”
About 10 minutes walk away from Yummies, near the Clock Tower Square, is Thija Cafe, the favourite venue of tourists and elderly citizens.
The warm and soft lights are inviting and the ambience has a definite out-of-Thimphu feel. The cafe serves all kinds of coffee combined with different flavours of ice cream and pastries.
Manager Nima Wangchuk says the location is perfect because many youngsters hang out in this area.
“So it’s also surprising to see so many older people,” Nima Wangcuk says. “People don’t mind spending when the food is good.”
Suja (butter tea), milk tea and masala tea can be found anywhere in Thimphu but the coffee culture is |definitely picking up. “
“With free wifi and fast and clean service, cafes are fast becoming the best places to hand out.” says Nima Wangcuk.
Thija, which has been in operation for six months, is open daily.
Sharing street space with these new kids on the block are a few old favourites, of which Ambient Cafe is one. Modern and posh with a large window overlooking Norzin Lam, it’s popular with tourists and expatriates and even boasts a mini library.
Karma’s Coffee in Hongkong market boasts a sign that reads, “Give me coffee and nobody gets hurt”. A popular place for locals and tourists, it offers a wide selection of freshly brewed coffees, pastries and continental bakes.
Located next to the famous Swiss Bakery is the Art Cafe that offers a wide selection of coffees, pastries and dishes. The first cafe in Thimphu, Swiss Bakery used to be the only hip place, recalls Tshering, who spends a fair amount of time in cafes.
“Art Cafe is my new favourite. The atmosphere is relaxing and the food and coffee are good,” Tshering says.
