A palace rises in Amphawa

SAMUT SONGKHRAM’S Amphawa district, always a treat for visitors thanks to its charming canal life and classic floating market, has a lot more going for it now with the opening last month of Chuchai Buri Sri Amphawa.

The sprawling resort-mall-culture museum is as modern as can be and yet, after an initial misstep, it now fits in perfectly with its bucolic surroundings, the result of thoughtful care in its colonial-era design.

Celebrated jeweller Chuchai Chairittilert has built the resort with an eye to making Amphawa even more famous – as the world’s first “canal night market”, complete with setting-specific handicrafts, engaging performances of music and dance and authentic Siamese cuisine. 

The project became mired in controversy soon after construction began in 2012 because residents found the structures too European in style, resulting in a jarring clash with the rustic Southeast Asian buildings that surrounded them. The four-storey building and jewellery emporium that were rising also threatened a row of century-old wooden shophouses, and Chuchai was urged to demolish what he’d built.

A compromise was reached. Chuchai agreed to flip his designs from West to East, adopting in some areas a purely Asian style so the resort would blend in more harmoniously with its neighbours, and to refurbish the existing wooden houses so they would match the overall concept. 

“The controversy arose from a misunderstanding that I wanted to destroy nine old wooden houses,” he says. “In fact I had to rebuild them because termites had eaten away at the structure. I restored them with old wood and even designed the new doors. I’m willing to adjust my plans if it makes everyone happy.”

Chuchai ultimately spent four and half years and Bt600 million on the three-rai site, gradually satisfying residents that his “conceptual boutique design” would only enhance the district’s ability to transport visitors back to the halcyon days of yesteryear, when the benevolent King Chulalongkorn was on the throne.

“I love the tranquil atmosphere and the rural way of life along the canal,” Chuchai says. “Plus, I’m a Buddhist, and Amphawa has more than 100 temples. I originally bought the land to build a weekend house, but I saw the tremendous potential Amphawa has, so I changed my mind and built a resort and community mall to draw more tourists, and I believe it will bring in additional income for the people here too. 

“Now it’s not just the floating market that people will come to see on weekends – they can spend the whole week and enjoy all sorts of fun activities.”

In all there are four main buildings, three restaurants, a French patisserie and shopping area. Antique furniture and other collectibles from Chuchai’s house fill every venue.

Visitors first notice the Chainakara clock tower with its whimsical parade of electric puppets. Inside the entrance is the devotional Lan Ruk Lan Satta, containing images of the Hindu deities Uma Devi, Ganesha and Shiva-Lingam adorned with diamonds, emeralds and gold. A skilled maker of phra phong figurines shows guests how he creates the figurine versions.

Lined up in a row are three traditional Siamese houses, the original structures moved here from Ratchaburi. They house the Chainarttarart, comprising a museum of antiques and a theatre for performances of classical dance.

On display are 700-year-old Sukhothai Buddha statues, finest nielloware from old Ayutthaya, fabric hand-woven in gold silk, coloured glass from Europe and carved Burmese Buddha images. 

“I collect all kinds of antiques, ranging from apparel and artwork to musical instruments and furniture,” says Chuchai. “I set up this museum to share my interests with other collectors. In the evenings the presentations on Thai culture keep the complex lively.”

Guests staying overnight have rooms in the magnificent octagonal building called the Chinnabanchorn, which even has a duplex penthouse with a dome skylight. The Mungmee and Srisuk residences offer 18 loft-type rooms differing in size and theme. The Executive Suite luxury suite boasts a wonderful Renaissance mirror, Victorian-style sofas and a king-size bed. 

On the ground floor of the residences is a retail area selling clothing, costume jewellery and home decor handcrafted by local artisans. Another store is called Somjai, which has fine souvenirs – handicrafts, T-shirts, stationery, herbal skincare products and items for the home – again all created by people in the neighbourhood.

The restaurant Chornpratarn has a seafood lunch buffet and a dining area called Soontraporn, after the popular big band of the 1950s, whose music plays in the background. And the bakery Chim Choo stocks fresh-daily croissants, cakes and French pastries. 

Those nine wooden houses whose fate hung in the balance while construction was underway have fared well. They now house Na Kidthung, an all-day-dining restaurant serving Thai favourites.

A day trip to Amphawa always has to take in the floating market. It’s a lively scene filled with laughter, the adjacent old shophouses adding to its allure now that they’ve been turned into coffee houses, restaurants, gift shops and even places to spend the night or a few days. 

Asked about Chuchai Buri, the locals seem to wish it well, knowing it’s likely to draw more tourists. Sophon Srirat, who runs a bakery selling desserts mentioned in Siamese literature, is upbeat about the possibilities. 

“Its emphasis is on craft products, whereas the floating market is famous for cheap local food, so we have a different target groups,” he says. “Chuchai’s arrival has added colour to the floating market. He just renovated some houses – it had no detrimental effect on our community.

“Actually it was the Chaipattana Foundation that really revived interest in the floating market with its Amphawanurak project a few years ago. The shopkeepers were invited to open on weekends to boost the local economy.”

Prayong Phophiphit – who makes Baan Takieng Hing Hoi lanterns and key chains from recycled materials – is delighted to see more foreign tourists coming to Amphawa because of Chuchai Buri. 

“It’s a good sign, even though our gross sales haven’t increased because the economy is bad. But Chuchai has supported the local vendors by selling our products in his shops.”

  

MORE TO SEE

Chuchai Buri Sri Amphawa is adjacent to the Amphawa Floating Market and for casual visitors is open daily from 10 to 10. 

Admission is free this month, after which it will be Bt150 (Bt300 for foreigners). 

Call (034) 129 900 or visit www.ChuchaiBuri.com.