Racing down the roof of the world

In a small clearing atop the tree-spotted Himalayan foothills, about 20 kilometres from Kathmandu, a group of men clad in protective gear, helmets in hand, are listening attentively to instructions. From here, they have clear views of the valley spread out below them, and soon they will be descending in that very direction at enormous speeds, riding their mountain bikes over a trail that is anything but smooth. 

     This is the extreme sport of downhill mountain-biking, and these are the men who’ve fallen in love with it.

It was early in 2008 when downhill mountain-biking was first introduced in Nepal, and since then, the sport has been pulling in a growing number of enthusiasts. And representing an opportunity for these adrenalin-junkies to come together, show off their skills and compete, the National Downhill Championship has been held on a yearly basis since 2011, organised primarily by the Nepal Cycling Association.

“The rougher the terrain the better,” says Sajjan Rajbanshi, who placed second in this year’s race, held on March 30. “There’s the excitement that comes with hurtling down slopes at such high speeds, of course, but it also makes you feel at one with nature because you’re facing head-on whatever obstacles it has to throw at you.” 

This year’s course was about two kilometres in length, defined on each side by strip tape and colourful prayer flags. And differences in time between first, second and third place winners were just seconds, with cyclists going wheel to wheel  until the last few metres, when the Czech Republic’s Onbrej Barta spurted ahead to victory, finishing the course in a blistering three minutes and 14 seconds. 

Even watching the race from the sidelines offers an adrenalin hit, as riders hurtle past at impossible speeds slaloming round boulders, roots, bumps and burrows. 

“Many of our competitors, especially the ones from overseas who’ve seen trails around the world, say that the natural tracks in Nepal are some of the best anywhere,” says Ajay Narsingh Rana, one of the organisers. 

Given the kind of trails they run over, bikes for the sport need to be designed for manoeuvrability and strength, with good suspension features back and front. Machines typically cost anywhere between US$800 and $6,000 (about Bt11,700-Bt175,000). But it’s not enough to own a bike; downhill-mountainbikers emphasise that people should not attempt this sport unless they are fit, are experienced cyclists and have proper body gear – helmets, knee and elbow guards. 

The dangers are real – a brief search on Youtube delivers clip after clip of blood-curdling crashes and mangled limbs. But the thrills are worth the spills judging by the sport’s growing popularity in Nepal. Eighty per cent of the 24 riders who participated in this year’s championship were local. 

“It shows that this is a sport with potential, not just as something to offer international visitors, but also one that Nepalis could come to master,” says Rana. “And it’s a sign that the thrill of extreme sports transcends geographical boundaries.”