Cuts of perfection

The elderst daughter in a family of jewellers that can trace its history back more than 100 years, Suparin Chavanaves is determined to put Mian Teck Jewellery Export firmly on the global map with Chavana, a new brand of locally crafted collections. 

Suparin’s great-grandfather, a Chinese immigrant, opened the first Mian Teck store in Bangkok’s jewellery hub – Baan Mor Road near Chinatown – in 1914. Word of its highly crafted pieces and the owner’s hospitality spread, and before long, the Thai elite were flocking to the shop in search of unique pieces. 

By the time the third generation took the reigns, Baan Mor Road’s golden age as a gem centre had ended and jewellery shops were popping up all over the city. Mian Teck responded by looking to the international market and was one of the first Thai jewellers to exhibit its wares at international trade fairs from Italy to Basel and Hong Kong. It did so well that soon the owners set up a factory in Klong San in Thon Buri to cater to buyers from Europe, the US, India and China. It was through these collaborations with customers that Mian Teck developed its expertise in creating exceptional Art Deco and Edwardian-inspired pieces, forging the character of what would later become the house’s signature style. 

The design and know-how generated through years of global experience resulted in the presence of its creations in prestigious auction houses like Sotheby’s and Christies as well as on the red carpet. 

The only regret, says Suparin, 34, was that the creations were not made under a Thai brand name.

 “So two years ago, we started conceptualising Chavana and have worked hard to develop it into an established brand with its own character and an identity that celebrates the Mien Teck legacy and acts as a bridge between the past and the present generations,” she says. 

“Chavana is derived from our family surname and I certainly won’t be doing all this alone. My brothers and sisters and cousins will gradually join the business and bring their own talent to each field.”

With a degree from New York and professional experience with Polo Ralph Lauren, Gucci Group and jewellery brands in New York, Suparin is confident that she can develop the business and make the Chavana brand known worldwide.

For now, she is maintaining Mian Teck’s signature Art Deco and Edwardian designs and embracing old-fashioned jewellery-making techniques that require more time to achieve outstanding effects. 

There are times, she says, when high quality coloured-stones have to be re-cut and re-faceted over and over again to fit the pattern of a setting, while every diamond hole is carefully hand-polished with a thread. Other times, the back of the piece is sawn and worked on to create an open-worked behind that allows the back to look as beautiful as the front. The processes are so intense that it can take a year to finish a single piece. 

Chavana offers four main collections. The Signature collection is a perfect synchrony between colours, geometric designs and delicate workmanship and unique with its tri-coloured scheme. Rubies, sapphires and emeralds are used to create endless geometric fantasies while the Art Deco style and the stone-cutting techniques flatter every single piece of the precious stones. 

The Heritage collection is a real work of art, Surapin says, and much in demand by auction houses. Corals, turquoises, lapis lazuli are integrated, yielding more colour hues and shades and creating a kaleidoscopic wonder. This collection also features one-of-a-kind gemstones sourced from different corners of the world including imperial jade animal figurines from China and carved emeralds with moghul motifs from India. 

Chavana’s Diamond collection sees the use of European old cut, rose cut and brilliant cut in Edwardian and deco-inspired settings. This collection is all about delicacy, with the metal crafted in lace-like open-work, and the edges finished off with minuscule millegrain detail.

The Black Deco collection is more contemporary and tailored to women who value individuality. Black deco glorifies the symmetry and geometric proportions while the stark contrast between the white diamonds and black onyx reflects the boldness of modern day femininity.

Surapin’s elders are delighted with her initiative, with her uncle Sitthidej full of praise for a line that, he says, “reflects the values that the Chavanaves family has held on to for generations.

“Integrity, honesty and hard work form the core of our business. My grandfather always said that the family-work-life balance is an art that one must learn in order to enjoy wealth and health.”

“These exceptional jewel creations are our strength. My grandfather, who is now 80, has yet to retire. He says he wants to do more than just talk and so he works very hard. It’s his passion and one that is passed down from generation to generation,” Suparin says.

 

 

PRECIOUS PIECES

Chavana’s flagship store is on the first floor of Central Embassy. A second branch is scheduled to open soon in Hong Kong.