Michelin stars to guide them

ACTOR CHARKRIT Yamnam, the host of Thai television’s version of “Iron Chef”, recently opened a restaurant with one of the show’s more successful contestants, Chumphol Jangprai, and everyone is packing in to Siam Wisdom for a sample. The food itself isn’t ferrous, but the place is a magnet.

Determined to make Siam Wisdom one of best Thai restaurants in the world, Charkrit, Chumphol and other three partners rounded up Bt30 million to revive a venerable old Thai house on stilts. The kitchen alone cost Bt5 million, but it’s huge and built for efficiency.

Underneath the Thai house is a bar-lounge where customers warm up for the main event aloft over snacks and aperitifs. The wine cellar alongside stocks more than over 150 labels, both Old and New World. 

“As suggested by the name, we present local culinary wisdom with authentic Thai taste, high-quality local ingredients and an international-standard kitchen,” says co-owner Sukhum Chiyatkitpattana. “Our main target group is foreigners. The set dinner menu will change every four months.”

Sukhum says the owners and staff are “preparing” for a visit by someone from the Michelin restaurant guide, “who’ll sweeping into Bangkok soon”. 

With eyes on that big a prize, chef Chumphol is paying careful attention to every detail. The black caviar comes from the Royal Project in Chiang Mai, the beef from a farm cooperative on Kasetsart University’s Kamphaeng Saen campus, the dried salted threadfin fish from Tak Bai in Narathiwat, the shrimp paste from Klong Kone in Samut Songkram, and the palm sugar from Phetchaburi. 

And every portion of rice is cooked separately in a clay pot. 

The main dining area upstairs is divided into different levels around the big pink tabebuia tree that grew alongside the original house. Paintings of lotuses and scenes from the Ramakien adorn the walls. A xylophonist serenades the diners.

Just as evocative is the a-la-carte lunch menu, which invites you to begin with khao chae, the traditional summer treat of chilled rice in jasmine-scented water with assorted side dishes (Bt480). It’s elaborately laid out to please the eye first, before the palate. You get fried shrimp-paste balls, green pepper stuffed with minced pork and wrapped in fried egg, a whole fried red onion, sweet and crispy shredded pork and sweet radish. 

There are three meal sets on offer at dinnertime – Ancient, Classic and Innovative (each Bt1,800).

“Ancient” isn’t exactly that old, but century-old recipes are used. Shang wha, for example, is a dish dating to the reign of King Rama II in the early 1800s. All the food is served on stoneware made in Sukhothai that mimics old-time Sangkhalok plates and bowls.

The “Classic” menu includes favourites from past to present, and they’re presented on textured, organically shaped stoneware made in Lampang. 

“Innovative” adds a modern twist to familiar flavours, with the selections arriving on dazzlingly white porcelain. 

Unable to choose among time periods, I’m forced to try all three sets. The “ancient” shang wha turned out to be charcoal-grilled king river prawn in a decidedly Thai dressing, served with crispy wild catfish and vegetables. The preparation is evidently quite complicated. 

“First, the river prawn is grilled to medium rare and sliced into tiny pieces,” explains Chumphol. For the dressing, shrimp paste is grilled and simmered with nam khem bak nat [fermented fish with pineapple sauce]. It’s then dressed with dried and crispy fish, coconut sugar, tamarind sauce, lemon juice, baby ginger, lemongrass, chopped chilli pepper and shredded peel of the rare citrus fruit som saa [bigarade or Seville orange] for a piquant bitterness.”

I suppressed an appreciative belch and turned to kaeng khee lek nuea, a just-as-pleasing, creamy curry of young cassia leaves sweetened slightly with coconut sugar and served with medium-rare beef (or Kurobuta pork if you prefer).

From the “Classic” list, kaeng kua poo is yellow curry with crabmeat and wild betel leaf and another must-try. The curry paste gives dried and crispy fish aroma and taste, while the young leaves of cha-om add delicious spiciness. 

My “Innovative” pad prik khing nong ped is duck confit with chilli-paste relish and sponge-jasmine rice. “The duck gravy is chilli paste blended with kaffir lime leaves,” Chumphol gently boasts. “The rice is made with a mix of fresh milk and coconut milk whipped with espuma. It’s then baked in an oven, which gives it a light, soft texture – like mashed potatoes.”

Poo ja khai sawan – crabmeat mixed with ant’s eggs and boiled duck egg on a bed of leafy pak waan, cooked with roasted chilli paste – proves irresistible. The tangy mangosteen chilli sauce is perfect for countering the creaminess of some of the other dishes you might have. 

My banquet meal ends with taeng thai nam kati souffle, which is Thai cantaloupe mixed with coconut milk and palm sugar in that promised “modern” twist. 

 

 

SMART DINING

>>Siam Wisdom on Sukhumvit Soi 31 is open daily for lunch (noon to 2.30) and dinner (6.30 to 11).

>>Book a spot at (02) 260 7811 or www.SiamWisdomCuisine.com.