That old beach magic

There is nowhere in Chumphon that conjures up the magic of bygone days better than the Chumphon Cabana. This old-style resort is the epitome of the tourism boom that the province more than two decades ago. Once a diving hub with bustling businesses, Thung Wua Laen beach drew divers from across the globe eager to explore the depths off Chumphon.

With three buildings set towards the back of its spacious property, Chumphon Cabana is not a “sea view” resort. The rooms, while run down, provide basic accommodation. Furnished with a small television and fridge, ample bathroom and a large balcony, the resort suits those seeking a quiet and intimate vacation close to nature. Some walking is required if you want to enjoy the sea but on the plus side, you do stay dryer when the province is lashed by high waves during the seasonal monsoon.

Chumphon Cabana made headlines during the Asian financial crisis back in 1997. The owners took the advice of His Majesty the King and followed the self-sustainability path in overhauling their operations. They hunkered down, did whatever they could to keep going and gradually paid off their debts. Now, with fewer financial burdens, the place has become a clear manifesto for self-sustaining wisdom and happiness from within.

At the back of the resort is a mini farm, where herbs and vegetables are grown, chickens, ducks and pigs are organically raised and cooking oil is turned into biodiesel fuel to feed the resort’s van and cruiser. Cabana has also become home to a school for those who are interested in getting the most out of their household activities and how to adapt HM the King’s wisdom to their everyday life.

Chumphon Cabana offers two types of accommodation: standard rooms in the three buildings and bungalows dotted across the lawns and yards. The latter are a little more expensive, but guests benefit from privacy, a better view of the garden and a glimpse of the sea. All rooms come with a hearty breakfast. Besides home-made healthy breads, Chumporn Cabana’s breakfast also includes Southern-style rice vermicelli with curry, kanom krok (coconut milk mini cakes) and khao yum (Southern style rice with assorted vegetables) plus eggs and pastries. 

The vast, unspoiled beach is a big draw and you can wind down beneath the tall beachfront casuarinas, reading or observing adrenaline-seekers kite surfing on windy days.  

Chumphon Cabana’s spacious area is an attraction on its own. The self-sustainable yard at the back is open to all and is a good place for families with kids. The cows, buffaloes, insects and plants, shrubs and trees as well as herbs with designated name signs all provide wonderful opportunities for the little ones to learn and enjoy life outside the city and department stores. If you are in large group, you can also make an appointment for a guided tour. And if the weather permits, get out to sea either to snorkel or just to swim. 

While clean and affordable, the hotel doesn’t offer much in the way of luxuries. You may want to bring your own pillows, if you need more than one to have a good night sleep and your iPod speakers if you don’t want part with your music. And don’t forget to pack your swimsuits, sunglasses and numerous books because here you get to enjoy a classic seaside vacation just like in the old days.

 

      At a glance

High Points: Wonderful setting, unbeatable location for those wishing to spend days at Thung Wua Laen beach. Friendly staff and affordable prices.

Low Points: A tad run down. Rooms need total facelifts.

Pay for it: From Bt1,500 per night.

Find it: Thung Wua Laen beach, Pathiu district, Chumphon

Browse it: www.Cabana.co.th

Phone it: (089) 724 9319-20