Sorndaeng is situated right on the Democracy Monument roundabout with a clear view of the stage. During protests, all the tables are booked at all times of the day, and there’s a sign saying “Only for customers with reservations”. On such days, the restaurant does not accept walk-in customers.
Known as the “meeting place of intellectuals”, the restaurant has always been popular during times of protest. Thanawat Sriwai, assistant manager of Sorndaeng for 12 years, said his customers consist mostly of politicians, high-ranking managers and intellectuals every time there is a protest, regardless of what it stands for.
After having been through so many protests, Sorndaeng has learned not to take sides. Instead, it emphasises its service. “I always instruct the employees that whatever side you take, you need to wear the waiter’s uniform. After your shift, then you can take whichever side you want, but during your job, you must be of service and do your duty,” Thanawat said.
As for business, Thanawat said the protests did not have much of an impact. Thanks to the intellectuals, the restaurant remains full every day, even if it is for the time being inaccessible to tourists or tour buses.
Democracy Monument and Rajdamnoen Avenue have seen many rallies, political conflicts and outright clashes over the years. Peaceful or violent, revolutions that changed the country have sprung from this famous site, including the October 14 uprising in 1973, and Black May in 1992.
In 2006, Democracy Monument was the scene of the coup to oust former PM Thaksin Shinawatra and bloodshed during the 2010 red-shirt protest. Now, thousands of citizens have gathered there again in opposition to the “Thaksin regime”.
On Rajdamanoen Avenue, while Sorndaeng survives decades of protests, political rallies can also benefit other businesses.
Some popular restaurants such as Mont Nomsod and Krua Apsorn report a marked increase in sales, saying protesters often replace the usual customers. A bakery like Mont Nomsod said the big increase in business is in the sale of drinks.
Some hotels in the immediate vicinity benefit from the protest too. Protesters from Bangkok and other provinces often come to stay in the hotels since, according to a guest of Baan Dinso, the stage is visible from the hotel windows. The hotels also reported more Thai guests than before, especially hotels which usually only receive tourists.
But it appears only service-related businesses have profited from the protest. The closing of Rajdamnoen has hurt firms that require bus access.