Sugar, spice and all things nice

Bold, rich and hearty is probably how most Zuma fans describe the food – even the normally soothing and mild miso soup served here is deliciously spicy. Those who like it hot can whet their appetites with spicy crab miso soup (Bt190), which teases the palate with the hot taste of paprika and the sweetness of the crabmeat in the background. Normally crabmeat’s powerful smell would overcome such a delicate soup, but with the chilli and extra seasoning added, it rounds out perfectly and becomes an addictive starter that really shouldn’t be missed. 

Alternatively, you can start your motor running with beef tartare served comes with crispy nori, fresh shiso and garlic chips (Bt440). Unlike its rather bland European cousin, Zuma’s little bowl of raw meat is well seasoned with wasabi, pickles and avocado. Take a spoonful and enjoy it with grilled seaweed sheet, potato chips or the squid ink crispy bread. If you prefer this “beef salsa” with a nasal tang of shiso leaves, there are some fresh ones on the side, too. You can even add a bit of luxury with Oscietra cavair at Bt350 more.

Another cold dish not to be missed is the crab somen noodle salad with spicy lemon dressing (Bt340). The super thin wheat noodles are tossed in a slightly salty, light dressing and it’s only after holding them in your mouth for a few seconds that you’ll experience the green, refreshing flavours of lime zest and lime juice. The slightly sour salad dressing makes the sweet crabmeat a welcome addition. With a little of chilli and ginger thrown in, this refreshing and light dish very addictive. 

To satisfy the carnivores, there’s pork belly salad with cabbage and sesame ponzu dressing (Bt280) where the thin slice of succulent, not-too-fatty pork is wrapped around a bunch of crunchy greens and slathered with creamy ponzu dressing with a hint of lime. It is a light dish but also pleasingly hearty, with a well-rounded balance of sweetness and sourness and a definite savoury edge 

Another dish to try is barbecued pork ribs with spicy cashew nuts and spring onions (Bt480). The ribs are char-grilled on an open fire till crispy on the outside and tender on the inside. The colour might make one think of Thai-style moo daeng or the Chinese char siew, both normally oily and sweet but at Zuma, the seasoning is moderate and pleasant and not at all sweet. The meat is so tender that it falls off the bone when you pick up a rib.

If you like seafood, make sure you order a plate of rockshrimp tempura served with fresh lime, chilli mayo and Australian pink sea salt (Bt360). The bite-sized shrimps are deep-fried in light, airy batter. Squeeze in some fresh lime and dip it in creamy and spicy mayonnaise-based sauce. If you’d prefer more flavours, have it with a bit of coarse sea salt. The dish has a perfect balance of every flavour – sweet mayo, sour and bitter lime, salty grains and a touch of hot chilli. Zuma even takes off the shrimps’ tails for you. 

Finish off the meal with jasmine ice cream and sake-poached apple (Bt250), a combination of jasmine cream, green tea biscuit and poached apple that’s served with a scoop of fragrant jasmine ice cream. The sake doesn’t give an alcohol kick though but the fragrance of the brew is still detectable. 

 

 

JAPAN ON THE ROCKS

>> Zuma is located at ground level of St Regis Bangkok next to Rajdamri BTS. It is open daily from noon till 3pm, and from 6pm till 11pm.

>> Call (02) 252 4707 or visit www.ZumaRestaurant.com.