Honouring the living, remembering the dead

WITH A NAME like “The New Arrivals”, it wouldn’t be out of place to assume that the sisters behind the leading Thai label Sretsis were inspired by a joyous birth for their autumn and winter 2013 collection. Quite the contrary in fact: it was a visit to Mexico’s famed “Dia de Muertos” (Day of the Dead) festival that sewed the seeds for the latest outfits.
Yet it is not so strange as it appears, says creative director Pimdao Sukhahuta, who explained at the recent press preview at Moose restaurant in Soi Ekamai that the Mexicans believe that death is, in fact, a continuation of life – not an annihilation of deep, personal bonds.
“Death is to be rejoiced, not mourned nor feared,” she told her audience. The physical presence can disintegrate, but peaceful spiritual bindings are forever etched in, outlasting the heaviest of tombstones and deepest sorrow.”
Echoing the same spiritual belief, Buddhism’s concept of reincarnation also teaches that life is transient and only a transition to death where true awakening awaits.
“The New Arrivals” thus represents the beautification of death, the acceptance of life cycle and tranquil remembrance, serving as a gentle reminder that we should always be aware of this inevitable journey, and it’s only wise to be readily packed.
High craftsmanship and intricate textiles pay homage to the festival’s decorated graves and altars. Giving the traditional Mexican dress a more modern edge, the silhouettes rely on inner peace and comfort with Sretsis’ signature twists of grandeur. Mascots are Benicio the Lynx, Diego the Fox and Carola the Owl bare their souls as they appear half-alive with furry faces while the other half shows their skulls.
Inspired by Mexico’s age-old craft of shadow boxes, where memories are guarded, Sretsis’ newly developed flower keepsake technique allows custom made poppies to be kept safely inside the sleeves, pockets and collars, showing memories through layers of transparent, shimmering organdie. The poppy keepsakes also come in floaty, glittering chiffon.
Butterflies, the spirit carriers, flutter their wings as organza appliques on dresses with organdie layered over twinkling sequins. During the day, the butterflies sway coyly, but when night falls, they glow in the dark, signalling a never-ending spiritual journey.
Butterfly skull prints twist take over from the usual animal print on a newly developed fabric, Wool Peach, which is soft, silky to the touch, but tough and durable to the wear. Juvenile Skeleton prints – depicting glow-in-the-dark carcasses of a baby fox, unicorn and owl –appreciates the livings while remembering those who have passed to another dimension.
The Dark Shadow Cape is designed to keep hearts warm on a chilly evening with digital printed velveteen that mimics lynx fur while the Butterfly Cape Coat comes with wing collar details. Butterfly tights and over-the-knee socks also keep the chill at bay.
Sretsis jewellery has a field day with symbolic keepsakes supplied by the traditions of Dia de Muertos. From a pearl cross necklace to a flower headpiece, each item appears delicate, but is supported by a solid structure, representing fragile, yet impossible to eradicate memories. The three mascots come in half face/half skull rings with marquise stones, labradorite and druzy.
All flower keepsakes are hand-sculpted individually with extra strength Japanese clay while the ever-present shadow box is transformed into a butterfly pendant through double enamel.