Nourishment for the childhood soul

MINIBAR ROYALE, the Parisian-style brasserie with a hint of New York chic, might have relocated from its former Sukhumvit Soi 23 home to the upmarket Central Embassy, but it remains true to its down-to-earth, home-cooking roots. 

The old restaurant, which opened six years ago, was decorated with panels of dark colours, French doors and dark wooden tables with maroon sofas and velvet chairs in charcoal grey and black that invited you to sink into them. Minibar Cafe, as the new incarnation is known, retains the New York/Paris feel and adds a mosaic floor and mosaic counter bar for a new dimension of elegance. The dining area indoors can accommodate 50 guests and the alfresco terrace, which is proving popular in the cool season, accommodates another 50.

The brainchild of a group of close friends who once lived together in the Big Apple, Minibar has long been cherished for its creative European comfort food and an expanded menu for the new location sees the addition of several Thai home-cooked favourites.

“Thais can’t eat European foods everyday. The new menu is based on the concept of comfort foods all 10 of the partners – were brought up with,” says co-owner Rattama Pongponrat, author of “A Comfort Diary of Family’s and Friend’s Recipes”.

“It’s the food that is associated with childhood and we can eat it everyday All of us have shared the signature dishes of our families and friends.

“I personally love ox tongue so my contributions all use this delicious ingredient,” Rattama continues.

Her Ox-Tongue Fritters (Bt190) are first braised then deep-fried until golden brown and served with spicy mayo dip, Ox Tongue Stew (Bt320), meanwhile comes with creamy mashed potato while the Stir-Fried Ox Tongue (Bt160) includes Italian basil and a poached egg on rice. 

“I also like meat, cheese and anything crunchy, so many dishes are heavy on these ingredients. Canned sardines in olive oil are one of my favourites so I coat them slightly with batter and fry them, then serve then in the can with a papaya salsa (Bt150).”

Breadcrumbs replace the croutons in Caesar Salad (Bt220) and are cooked with olive oil, anchovy, garlic and parsley. The salad dressing contains no egg yolk but is a simple blend of mayonnaise, vinegar, olive oil and garlic and poached egg is substituted for the usual boiled egg.

Fans of Thai food will love the DIY Garden Wrap (Bt190), a mix of crunchy roasted salted pork belly chunks, rice noodles, vegetables, and chopped chilli, lemon and red onions. You just wrap the ingredients in vegetables and add the spicy dressing. 

Pizza lovers will enjoy the Tortizza (Bt190), a tortilla pizza with stir-fried spicy prawn, chopped chilli and garlic and mozzarella cheese on a thin tortilla sheet. And the little ones are guaranteed to love Penne Chorizo Carbonara (Bt220), which is heavy on chorizo slices and boasts a poached egg and cream sauce. Other tasty comfort options are Spaghetti Cream Parmesan with Honey Glazed Ham (Bt220), and Apple Banger and Mash, an apple sausage with mashed potato and gravy.

For a more substantial dish, check out the Sweet Minced Pork on Rice in Egg Blanket (Bt140) or Deep-Fried Sea Bass Topped with Soy Paste, Green Chilli and Quinoa (Bt200).

Minibar also offers a range of mouth-watering desserts including the feel-good Grilled Buttery Toast Served with Thai Tea Cream (Bt150) and Espresso & Tres Leches Granita (also Bt150) served with warm brownie. 

Another co-owner Phanpimol Chongprasitipol is in charge of creative mixology and recommends her Honey Matroom Pop (Bt120), a concoction of bael fruit juice, honey and lemon juice fizzed up in the soda maker. Also on the drinks menu are Pandan Passion Smash (Bt120) – pandan-infused juice, passion fruit and pomegranate syrup, and Creamy Avocado (Bt150) – a blend of avocado, cream and aloe ice flake. 

Six years ago, Minibar Royale was one of the few independent restaurants offering brunch both on weekdays and weekends. That tradition has, for the moment at least, been discontinued with brunch only available on Saturday and Sunday, from 10.30 to 4. The selection includes house-made Granola & Yoghurt with Honey and Seasonal Fruit, Eggs Benedict Royale and Duck Confit and Egg.

 

HOME-GROWN TREATS

>>Minibar Cafe is on the fifth floor of Central Embassy. It’s open daily from 10.30 to 10. Call (02) 160 5610 or search for “Minibar Cafe” on Facebook.