Appetites in full bloom

“PLEASE DON’T eat the daisies” is an expression that entered the English language thanks to a popular 1960 movie of that title, but Osha Bangkok on Wireless Road advises just the opposite, and who’s going to argue when its spectacular “Floral Set” menu is so delicious?

Daisies, however, are not on offer. “We want to showcase Thai flowers,” says newly appointed corporate chef Purida Theeraphong, and the colourful, delicate specimens she uses aren’t added just for the sake of beauty or Instagram-worthiness, either. Their herbaceous elements complement the taste of the other ingredients, supplying magnificent balance. 

But they do look great, just the same. “Aesthetically, a dish with flowers never fails to excite, and it’s better to have something that’s both beautiful as well as edible,” Purida points out. With 17 years’ experience at leading restaurants and hotels in Australia and Thailand, Purida also made history as the first woman to win on television’s “Iron Chef Thailand”. 

Adding to the allure of the Floral Set, the menu is paired with Mekhong whiskey-based cocktails inspired by the heroic monkey deities depicted in the Ramakien, the classical epic poem, but more on them in a moment.

The terrific meal starts with Garden Talk Crispy and Berry Sauce, a rice cake scattered with petals of butterfly pea, rose and marigold for colour, crunch and scent, and sweet-and-sour mulberry sauce on the side.

This comes with Triple Senses of Deep Blue Marine – the traditional Thai savoury snack khanom tom (steamed rice dumpling) made all the more addictive with a seasoning of dried fish and just a hint of pla ra (fermented fish). Fresh lettuce is provided to cool the palate and chillies to heat it back up.

Osha Ocean and Floral Salad has a big Hokkaido scallop that’s been marinated in creamy water drawn from the Momordica, an herbaceous creeper, and then topped with Thai-style spicy sauce and more of those crunchy flower petals. 

Don’t be put off by the idea of a raw scallop – it’s utterly odourless and so tender it almost melts in the mouth. Cilantro oil eliminates any greasy sensation while adding an elegant fragrance. 

This course is paired with a cocktail called the Mekhong Sukreep, which has cleansing watermelon juice as the main ingredient. In the Ramakien, Sukreep is the red-skinned monkey warrior who leads Lord Rama’s army against the forces of the demon king Tossakan. 

What comes next is guaranteed to make your jaw drop. Red Velvet Spell over Charming Fish entices every sense – herbal broth, slices of Chinese silver pomfret and petals of pink lotus. The final preparation is left to you.

You lightly cook the fish in the broth, dab it in an herbal dip made from red ginger flowers and wrap it in a lotus petal to eat. On its own the petal would taste bitter, but the various herbs and the sweet fish render it smooth, nutty and heavenly smelling. Say cheers to the chef with a sweet-and-sour Mekhong Pali, named for yet another fighting simian hero. 

The main course is sublime. Rock Lobster and Amber Curry Sauce involves chunks of the shellfish slow-cooked until tender, wonderfully light, even with the curry sauce. On the side is steamed jasmine rice cooked with taro and redolent with a nutty scent. 

This one comes with the equally aromatic Mekhong Hanuman, whose coconut juice complements the creaminess of the sauce and at the same time cleanses the palate. Hanuman, the Monkey King, is suitably armed to accompany the meal’s highlight. 

To end the repast, a Pure Botanic Sweet Kiss – layers of pandan-leaf sago, mango mousse and coconut cream, creating the sensation of mango sticky rice in the mouth. 

 

 

MIND THE MONKEYS

>>Osha Bangkok is on Wireless Road at the end of Soi Ruam Rudee. 

>>The six-course Floral Set is available only at dinner and for a minimum of two diners. It costs Bt2,200. The full set of Mekhong cocktails costs an additional Bt700 per person. Reservations should be made at least one day in advance, at (02) 256 6555. 

>>Find out more at www.OshaBangkok.com.