French with hints of fusion

Many restaurants boast massive menus listing tens of dishes, both savoury and sweet. Le Jaroen at The Scent Hotel in Samui narrows it down to what its chefs do the best while still offering enough variety to please everyone.

Combining international flavours with French cooking techniques, French educated executive chef Jutamas Theantae makes sure her kitchen uses as many local products as possible.

“We import some meat, but most of the greens and fruits are from local market, where we find the quality is comparably good. And to add a Thai accent, I use native flowers to decorate the dishes,” she says

She then produces a sizeable menu that features less than 20 items, savoury and sweets combined. For a starter, she recommends avocado tuna tartar (Bt490) served on ponzu leaf with a sprinkle of black sesame. Refreshing and light, the dish, which sounds bland, has very well rounded flavours and pleasant seasoning. Even if you don’t normally like raw tuna, you’ll love this dish.

Jutamas could change your feelings about strong smelling scallop with her Hokkaido scallop on wasabi cauliflower puree and orange caramel (Bt690). There’s little whiff of fishiness from the shell, and the normally bland scallop is seasoned with slightly sweet and tangy caramel, with a hint of wasabi from the puree. You really don’t need salt or pepper for this one.

The chef also recommends the luxuriously simple foie gras truffle miso soup (Bt490). This truly East-meets-West recipe enhances the simple Japanese miso soup with the richness and creaminess of foie gras, with just enough heavenly fragrance of truffle oil on top. A very addictive slurp.

The main course offer a selection of fish, beef, quail, lamb and venison. Fish lovers should go for snow fish beurre blanc (Bt890). A sizeable chunk of juicy, fresh snow fish is served with creamy white sauce, rocket leaves, crispy leek shreds and salmon roe.

Beef eaters get a real treat with 400 days Australian grain-fed beef tenderloin (Bt1,290). The big slab of meat is grilled and served with delicious Madeira wine glaze. Other condiments include crisp fried foie gras, glazed vegetables and hearty buttered bread.

The chef makes good sweets and pastries, too. Her recommendations are orange creme brulee, lemon mille feuille and chocolate seduction - all at Bt310 each.

If you want some Thai flavours, there’s a set menu at Bt1,500 per person. Included are appetiser variations (deep fried spring rolls, chicken in pandan leaves, fish cakes and others), savoury mushroom larb, massaman curry and mango and sticky rice for dessert.

The menu changes regularly, and some dishes are only available in some seasons. So check with the kitchen before hand, and do make a reservation, as the restaurant seats only 50 diners.

MAKING SCENTS
>> Le Jaroen is at The Scent Hotel, Koh Samui. It is open for lunch from 11.30am till 2.30pm, and for dinner between 6pm till 10pm.
>> Call (077) 962 198; www.thescenthotel.com