MALT WITH YOUR MISO
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Japan's wonderful whiskies align with the menu at Zuma
Too many folks, when invited to “drink something Japanese” with their sushi or yakitori, instinctively go for sake or Asahi beer. Clearly they have not been apprised of Japan’s excellent single-malt whiskies, or maybe they just don’t know how well the whisky pairs with food.
Zuma Bangkok’s “authentic but not traditional” Japanese dishes can now be accompanied by high-quality Hakushu and Yamazi whisky imported from Suntory’s two distilleries.
The Yamazaki Distillery in Osaka was the first in Japan, established in 1923 by Suntory founder Shinjiro Torii, who reckoned he could play the game with the Scots despite the completely different terrain and climate.
Half a century later, Keizo Saji opened Suntory’s second whisky mill, the Hakushu “forest distillery” in Yamanshi, where it taps the pristine waters of the Ojira River, officially acknowledged for its cleanliness. Its construction in the woods culminated a long search for a site that could best take advantage of Japan’s natural bounty.
The perfect match for a sashimi platter might well be Suntory Hakushu 10 Years Old on the rocks. It’s sweet and slightly floral and yet robust – and, yes, clean – terrific with the dish of fresh salmon, hirame and kinmedai served at Zuma.
Meanwhile the more forthright, crispy and slightly buttery Hakushu 12 Years Old is better suited to sturdier, more flavourful fish like fatty tuna (chu toro), hamachi and saba.
Heavily seasoned and marinated fish require something even more full-bodied and also mildly spiced, like Yamazaki 10 Years Old. Light, fruity and with a touch of honey spice, it goes well with seabass with yuzu – the seared tuna with marinated red onions. It also fits a light meat dish like seared beef with citrus-soy dressing.
Nuttier, oak-pungent Yamazaki 12 Years Old, which somehow reminds us of bourbon, goes beautifully with miso-marinated black cod and Heirloom Tomato Salad with ginger-spring onion dressing. In 2003 this whisky was Japan’s first to receive a gold medal at the International Spirits Challenge.
If you’re having grilled beef or anything heavier, get a glass of Nikka Taketsuru Pure Malt 12 Years Old to enhance the flavour. Sweet with roasted nuts and a butterscotch aroma, the whisky brings out the sour saltiness of the dishes to a surprising extent. It goes delightfully well with wasabi, too.
Nikka whisky is made at the Yochi and Miyagikyo distilleries in northern Japan, founded by Masataka Taketsuru in 1934. He learned the trade in “the old country”, becoming the first Japanese to study whisky making the University of Glasgow.
Other Japanese whiskies served at Zuma include Suntory Kakubin Blended and Nikka Black Blended.
ZOOM ZUMA
<< Zuma Bangkok is at the St Regis Bangkok and open from noon to 3 and from 6pm to 11. The lounge serves drinks until 2am on Fridays and Saturdays.
<< Set up a date at (02) 252 4707 or www.ZumaRestaurant.com.
