You can't beat the brulee

 I first sampled the gourmet French and Thai cuisine at Villa Be Your Guest a few years ago. It was simply one stop on a restaurant-hopping dinner tour, but I never forgot the fabulous creme brulee.
Returning recently to sample the new menu, I shared a pre-meal bottle of Champagne Mangin & Fils with three lovely ladies and again soaked in the lovely Chinoise French decor and the relaxed atmosphere. It’s like a spacious living room with sofa and day beds.
Chefs Frederic Insisienmay and Somsak Kaew-Un cook your meal individually – it becomes a “private” affair – and manager Nicolas Lanaud does the talking, adding an amusing twist to the proceedings. The result is a dazzling French-Caribbean affair that reflects the breadth and depth of French cuisine.
The first course was Foie Gras Dui: Terrine and Pan Seared, complete with the sweet, sour flavours of mango in the chutney and peach jam on the accompanying bread. The seared foie gras was crispy on the outside and tender inside. I washed it down with champagne.
The flames flared again and Seared US Scallop with Tomato and Sweet Chili “Rougail” (French-Caribbean relish) appeared. I emptied the dish quickly because the juice tasted like my favourite massaman, with spices, chilli and all that is expected of Indian cuisine.
That’s what French-Caribbean cuisine is all about – a melting pot of Indian, Dutch, Spanish Chinese and African culture.
The kind of rougail served here is slightly different from the original Caribbean version, in that they replace the fish with a scallop. Toss in onion and capsicum and the sauce is aromatic, spicy and hot, making the seafood more flavourful and tasty. Once the scallop was gone I sopped up the rest of the sauce left. Yummy!
The third starter was Ravioli of French Escargot, Mushroom and Fried Basil in a Garlic Cream. As a Thai I was happy to see the dish garnished with two fresh basil leaves. There were four or five ravioli in a creamy-white sea. I loved the garlicky aroma and crunchiness of the mushroom-escargot filling.
With a glass of tannic red wine, 2001 Chateau Branaire from the Bordeaux region, it was easy to cleanse the palate of its cloying creaminess.
The main course was Steamed Sea Bass, Aquitaine Caviar and Celeriac Coulis. The celeriac couli, a puree, went well with the fish topped with cream that added to its complexity. It had an appealing heft to it despite the small portion, and the presentation was nice too.
I sampled a companion’s main – Cock from the Royal Project, Morel and Vin Jaune Stew, and decided I preferred it to my fish, thanks in particular to the “yellow wine” stew.
I was soon poured a glass of the yellow wine, from the Jura region, a 2000 vintage made from late-harvest Savagnin grapes. It smelled quite strong and went well with savoury dishes. We proceeded slowly with the wine until the course was finished.
The set dinner includes an assortment of imported French cheese, which of course calls for more wine. Tomme de Savoie, Saint-Nectaire, blue cheese and brie took over the table, seeming a bit superfluous given the large meal, but we had a few slices!
The dessert trio was black-truffle ice cream profiterole, Apricot moulleux cake, almond heart and lavender creme brulee, and Venezuelan dark chocolate mousse.
I tackled the Apricot cake first because it came with lavender creme brulee – still my favourite choice at this restaurant. I don’t think anyone could finish all three desserts alone, so friendship (read: teamwork) is essential.
I feel duty-bound, though, to emphasise that the apricot cake goes really well with the creme brulee.
It’s a filling dinner, with fine wines that will keep you going until late. Given the pleasant experience at Be Your Guest, it’s no wonder that some people fly to Bangkok and go straight there from the airport.

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<< Villa Be Your Guest is on Sukhumvit Soi 53.
<< Make bookings at (086) 884 8185 or (081) 637 9047)
<< Find out more at www.BeYourGuest.Asia.