COUTURE ON THE CATWALK

Leading couturiers and designers showcased a variety of styles at the four-day Siam Paragon International Couture Fashion Week 2012, thrilling Bangkok’s fashionistas and raising hopes that this inaugural event will now fill a regular slot on the city’s fashion calendar.
Couture by definition is high fashion executed from strong craftsmanship and extreme attention to the details of dressmaking. And for Thailand’s first couture fashion week, seven top designers created outfits that more than rose to the occasion.
The grand catwalk mimicked the elegant architecture of the Ananta Samakhom Throne Hall, with models strutting gracefully in magic floor-sweeping dresses.

LIE SANG BONG

A daring red carpet designer, Lie Sang Bong from South Korea debuted his butterflies inspired collection, “Discourse of the Body” with Korean superstar Kim Gui Ri acting as his model. By using a variety of techniques to create shape and form, the collection presented a new definition of beauty. Bong’s overall components were delicate and elaborate details with innovative textures such as the acrylic film butterflies in the decorative details made the surface of fabric seem alive.

THEATRE

Sirichai Daharanont of Theatre says he drew inspiration from ancient Western dressmaking style for his collection. His interpretations, a take on the “Shakespeare” in Love costumes, were delicately embellished and creative. The menswear collection used lace and brocade as the main decorative elements on silk and hand-woven fabric, adding a touch of novelty. Beautifully tailored, very masculine and with lots of attention to detail, the collection embodied the true spirit of couture.

YUMI KATSURA

Fashion is the true cultural exchange, especially as interpreted through Yumi Katsura’s glamorous bridal collections. After more than four decades in the fashion industry, the renowned Japanese designer is extremely rich in her creations and innovative masterpieces. For her first showcase in Bangkok, she brought her iconic pieces for a romance-themed show that saw couples in wedding gowns reflecting the quintessence of Japanese tradition and its kimono heritage. Katsura’s finale in particular received the loudest applause. As model Marisa Anita walked gracefully in a sort of contemporary modified kimono, a black light was illuminated to reveal a stunning painted image screened on the back of the robe.

NAGARA

Recognised as one of Thailand’s most innovative and exclusive designers, Nagara Sambandaraksa combined oriental and western cultures and sprinkled a soupcon of modern magic to the mix for his “TechnoDragons” collection. Inspired by the powerful oriental creature, dragon prints and oriental flower patterns were printed on contemporary Chinese-looking dresses made from Mudmee, Praewa, Khid and plain silk, as well as hand-woven cotton, chiffon and satin. The fresh modern techno style blended well with bright neon colours such as bright green, orange, pink, yellow, and blue. Headbands that looked like dragon whiskers and neon-coloured armbands, huge thick plastic glasses, and street-wear caps embroidered with shiny sequins portrayed the techno side. Nagara also used advanced dyeing techniques, tie-dying sophisticated hand embroidery and hand-painting for this collection, which brought a new perspective to the couture fashion show.

FLY NOW

Reputable designer Chamnan Pakdeesuk from Flynow named his collection “Simplicity.” Unlike other shows where models took it in turns to walk, Chamnan’s mannequins all dressed in black, were presented at the same time and slowly walked around the stage.
The music was funereal but the clothes were beautifully designed, delivering elegance and showing off the women’s silhouettes and curves to perfection. With the models walking so slowly, the audience had more time to observe the details too. Chamnan used a special cutting technique of Mudmee silk for this collection, creating new forms and shapes unique to his line. Dresses were made from thick cotton reminiscent of the material used by the Chinese to wrap a newborn. The designer matched hand-embroidered Hmong hilltribe fabric with silk, organza silk, chiffon and leather. Real hair appeared on dresses in the black, waist-level plastic belts. Shoes were also highlighted, with the models wearing black stilettos with support from the front all the way to the back.

FREDERICK LEE

Named “The Best of Singapore” for his couture boutique by local magazines. Lee brought a mix of elegant and dramatic mixed with indigenous and tribal to his show. He took his inspiration for this collection from his journey to Jaipur, India as well as from other ethnic and tribal influences ranging from Northern India, Myanmar to Kenya. To this African and Asian contemporary fusion, Lee added his passion for avant-garde expression and his own exceptional creativity. Colourful hand-curled feathers, densely embroidered plumes, beaded cascades of ostrich feathers and form-fitting cut away jacket sleeves were used as ornaments to enhance the classy tribal atmosphere. Dominant colours were green, sky blue, red, brown, and black.
Accessories were striking, especially the vibrant beads on the headpieces that spilled down faces and the colourful tribal-style beaded bracelets. The collection reflected the designer’s belief in individuality and diversity and showed the high-level of embroidery skill and craftsmanship.

CHRISTOPHE JOSSE

The essence of haute couture, Christophe Josse prefers “not to present the Christmas tree” but something more delicate, elegant, and sophisticated. The style might appear simple and classic, but the essence of haute couture is excellence craftsmanship.
His collection, free of overt embellishment and flamboyant adornment, played on the contrast between fabrics.
Black was not simple black but had rhythm to it. Gold blown glass pebbles punctuated the silhouette across beaver fur, which adorned the front of a satin skirt while a zipped coat in black lacquered crocodile was worn against a wool crepe dress.
He says that his collection is graphic and the structure accentuated by lines. “It is supposed to be quite simple but it’s really a lot of hard work. I like to work with different fabrics - matt and shiny, silk satin and sports fabrics - these make you feel contrast but still give opulence to the couture. It’s not overly embroidered but simple and elegant.”
He named his collection “Opulently Uncluttered” and indeed the opulence comes from the effects of textures, luxurious fabrics, and technical innovations. Accessories are very important, with just a belt, necklace or ring adding the dynamics to an outfit. Grey evening gowns glittered with hand-crafted ornaments sown individually on the fabric.
But Hosse also broke away from his couture rules for this collection and offered fashionistas a sporty look.
The overall collection was every bit as radiant, refine and opulent as one might expect from a couturier of Josse’s calibre.
Roll on next year!