DECONSTRUCTING THE DISCREET

Next Thursday is a major day in the lives of Thai fans of H&M, as it marks the Bangkok release of the “Re-Editions” collection, a collaboration between the much-loved Swedish brand and Maison Martin Margiela garments and accessories for men and women.
The collection represents the Belgian house’s creative approach to tailoring over the last two decades with an emphasis on oversized pieces and loose masculine and feminine jackets, coats, trousers, sweater and cardigans.
Although the MMM collection arrives in Thailand a week later than elsewhere due to the delays in the shipping process, Thais will be able to buy the entire re-edition of Margiela’s archives.
We chatted with Martin Margiela of MMM by email.

How did the project come about and how does it feel being able to share an aspect of your much-unique style with all the fashion enthusiasts?
We were approached by H&M earlier this year, and immediately said yes. We are very happy to able to share our designs and concepts. We would not describe our work in any way other than it being the result of the creative processes of Maison Martin Margiela.

What is the reason that you consider collaborating with H&M and how do you feel being a guest designer collaborating with H&M?
We have always believed in the democracy of fashion, and want to share our concepts and designs with as many people as possible. We are a relatively discreet label in fashion, and often our production is limited by the difficulty of our design processes, or the scarcity of materials used. This collaboration allows us to pursue our democratic ideals.
 How do you compromise your design characteristic with the strong brand DNA of H&M? How do you see H&M’s fans as being different from your existing ones?
When we agreed to the collaboration, H&M told us that they did not want us to compromise in any way, but wanted the true nature of the Maison. This was very reassuring to us, and allowed us to approach the collection with the same attitude we approach any design process. We do not ever design for a particular customer, but rather we concentrate on the product itself. This is the same for both our normal collections and for our collaboration with H&M.

What is the main inspiration for the collection?
The collaboration is a series of Re-Editions of Maison Martin Margiela garments from various seasons since we were founded in 1988. The garments are some of our most important pieces from our first collection onwards, and cover all of the main themes of the Maison. The pieces have also been chosen so that together they form a complete wardrobe to be worn this winter.

What is the key look for this collaboration collection?
Because the collection is a series of Re-Editions of some of our most important pieces, they are all they key items. There are pieces, which show our interest in shape and volume by adjusting masculine garments to the female form, such as the first fitted jacket. The result of oversizing can be seen in the oversized peacoat or oversized sweater; the processes of tailoring are made transparent with the pattern cut jacket and trousers; ambiguity is shown in the trompe l’oeil tattoo top; while garments or objects are transformed in pieces such as the car-seat cover dress. There is also a full range of men’s clothes, and accessories for both men and women, all of which are key looks.
 CREATIVITY AND COLLABORATIONS
As H&M creative director responsible for the design process of each collaboration project, Margareta van den Bosch works closely with the brands to make sure that H&M gets the very essence of the label in each collection.
“Each brand brings something exciting, different and new to its H&M collaboration,” she says. “Our collaboration with Anna Dello Russo was so exciting, and brought such fun and glamour to our customers worldwide. That collection was focused specifically on accessories only.
 The collaboration with Maison Martin Margiela is our main designer collaboration of the season. I think it is such an amazing contrast between the two of the collaborations, and shows the endless possibilities of what you can do with fashion.
 “Also we make sure that there is enough of every single style to give everyone a chance to buy from the collection in around 230 stores worldwide. The pricing is very important, and is a key part of the production process, to make sure that these Re-Editions are both faithful to the original, and are also affordable. I am very happy with the results.”