Grape expectations rewarded at the Oriental

Last Wednesday, Australian winery Penfolds uncorked more than a century of globally respected grape wisdom at Mandarin Oriental Bangkok’s Le Normandie restaurant. But while the main draw may have been wine, diners were quickly cooing over the quality of the food. 

  The Rewards of Patience dinner took place in the opulent surroundings of the city’s top French restaurant, which nicely reflected Penfolds’ renown for rich and pleasing tipples. On hand to guide guests on their culinary adventure was Penfolds’ chief winemaker Peter Gago, who flew in to Bangkok exclusively for the evening.

Gago ascended to his prestigious position nine years ago, but as chief winemakers at Penfolds go, he’s only just started. Engaging and energetic, he has a commitment to wine that is unsurpassed. He spends the first, and most important, half of the year travelling between winery and vineyard, “ensuring our viticultural practices are world class, and understanding the nuances of our many and varied vineyards”. 

Then he enthusiastically embarks on his other role, as ambassador and educator. As only the fourth custodian of Penfolds’ Grange vintage – widely considered Australia’s finest wine – Gago is in high demand internationally. He brings Penfolds to the world, and the world of wine to him – an exposure that keeps him sharp and incredibly knowledgeable. 

“It’s important not to fall into the trap of drinking only your own wines. You must have benchmarks against which to measure your own achievement,” he says. 

And the evening saw various delectable Penfolds’ tipples grace a menu of savoury surprises. The delicate citrusy Yattarna Chardonnay 2007 was a good match for a succulent Canadian lobster with minty cauliflower and pine nuts. The richness of the foie gras terrine with chicken and savoury salad, meanwhile, was enhanced by the well-rounded RWT Rossa Valley Shiraz 2009. And those who chose the smoked duck breast fillet got to quench its bonfire aftertaste with the Bin 169 Cabernet Sauvignon 2009. 

The main event of the dinner, a lamb fillet and beetroot bursting with flavour, was served with Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon 2009. Finally, palates got to tour regional flavours of France via the cheese platter, made even more mouth-watering with a glass of Grange Shiraz 2005.