Let there be light

Set alongside the pool on the 14th floor of his Eastin Grand Sathorn hotel, Luce is designed in gold and wood tones with white-linen covered tables and floor-to-ceiling windows, offering patrons an airy and luxurious ambience. This 275-square metre restaurant can accommodate about 60 diners who can choose to sit comfortably indoors or relax and drink in the alfresco area while listening to ambient house spins from a resident DJ. 

A true fan of the Luce wine label, Keeree brings in a selection of award-winning wines from the Luce della Vite estate in Tuscany. Luce doesn’t only produce wine but is also involved in the Luce wine restaurants in San Francisco and Moscow. The Bangkok branch became the first Luce in Asia when it opened last month.

Luce, which means “light” in Italian, uses the winery’s burning sun symbol, reflecting the sun-drenched, high altitude vineyards where the grapes are grown. This wine label began in 1995 as a co-project between Napa Valley winemaker Robert Mondavi and the Frescobaldi family who started the production of wine in the Tuscan region more than 700 years ago. The restaurant’s wine cellar also houses a selection of Frescobaldi wines.

With the open kitchen, diners can enjoy seeing the chef team led by Roberto Bellitti at work.

“We have carbonara but it’s not normally what you expect. We’re not a classic Italian restaurant though we still have traditional dishes like pizza, pasta and tiramisu,” says Bellitti who previously worked as an executive chef at EFF Cucina e Stagioni in Milan, renowned for its creative and innovative fine dining menu.

Bellitti introduces the first dish of pan-seared US scallops (Bt450) that are beautifully arranged. The scallops are wrapped in Italian bacon pancetta and served on a bed of balsamic vinegar flavoured lentils. The lentils are imported directly from Castelluccio, a village in Umbria in the Apennine Mountains of central Italy. 

“Thanks to its mineral-rich ground and high plain, the lentils grown here is the finest in the world. They are a healthy ingredient with a rich source of protein and fibre. Castelluccio lentils are better than other varieties because they retain their shape when cooked and have nutty and earthy savour. Castelluccio is also a great supplier of black truffle,” says Bellitti.

The carbonara served here is hand-made ravioli carbonara stuffed with minced pork (Bt430). It is sunk in parmesan cream sauce tossed with fresh egg yolk and smoked pancetta crisps. As cold cuts – a great dish to share, Bellitti serves pancetta, Parma ham and salami on a wooden chopping board, together with wild flower honey and pecorino cheese that is mild and nutty in your mouth. Priced at Bt780, these Italian cured meats come with either toasted pizza bread or focaccia. 

Another pleasing dish is wagyu beef steak with rocket salad (Bt2,400). This 300-gram Australian beef with the marble score of 7 is very tender and goes best with salad in balsamic dressing and rosemary, tossed with parmesan cheese shavings and roasted new potatoes.

Do save a room for tempting desserts. Forget the tiramisu and opt instead for pear poached in port wine (Bt350). The sweet pear is perfect to eat with melted chocolate ice cream and a mix of ground peanut, galangal, cinnamon and kaffir lime leaves.

 

ITALIAN BY DESIGN

<< Luce is on the 14th floor of Eastin Grand Sathorn Bangkok (BTS: Surasak). It’s open daily for lunch from noon to 2.30pm and for dinner from 6.30 to 10.30.

<< The alfresco bar and lounge is open from 10 to midnight. Call (02) 210 8100 or visit www.EastinGrandSathorn.com.