
All thought of an underground cellar being the place you keep root vegetables and assorted junk flies out the window in the wonderful wine cellars of France, particularly in the province of Champagne, where magic happens in the basement of Moet & Chandon.
One of the world’s best-recognised bubbly brands has had its manufacturing base in Epernay, France, since 1743, when Claude Moet acquired a cellar descending 30 metres into the chalky soil, Today the Moet & Chandon’s cellars are the largest in the region, spanning 28 kilometres.
In this subterranean labyrinth the forces of nature converge for the metamorphosis of choice fruit into luxurious wine, the temperature and humidity levels never changing.
As of Wednesday, the firm has another special basement on the other side of the globe, the Moet & Chandon Grande Cellar on Bangkok’s Sukhumvit Soi 11. Here the temperature and humidity are controlled by a trusty air conditioner, but lovers of the bubbly can still enjoy the cellar vibe along with great champagne and decent food to match.
The restaurant is beneath the relatively new Cellar 11 Wine Bar & Bistro and duplicates the rawness and Old World charm of the original French facility in a former private home, occupying what used to be a swimming pool.
The cellar’s grand opening was by invitation only, guests lured by the promise of a Grande Emperor Dinner.
The meal began with Fin de Clair, pink and Kumamoto oysters served with Beluga caviar drops while the hosts raised a toast with Moet & Chandon Brut Imperial. First bottled in 1869, the Imperial embodies the firm’s characteristic bright fruitiness and elegant maturity and went delightfully with the savoury oysters.
Next came breast of duck from Toulouse, fried, roasted its gizzard steamed in oil at low temperature, and served with an organic salad in orange sauce. Accompanying it was Rose Imperial, a blend of Pinot Meunier, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir that accentuated the sweet red meat with its daring character and fresh, herbaceous fruitiness.
The evening’s highlight was Canadian lobster, seared and served with Peruvian white asparagus and a caviar light-cream sauce. Such pleasantly intense flavours were matched with Moet & Chandon Vintage 2002, the Grand Vintage family’s golden-coloured 69th vintage champagne. The fruitiness of pear, orange, plum, nectarine and white peach makes it refreshing, with a soft touch and precise finish to the palate. You can only buy a bottle at Cellar 11, the price Bt5,600.
The night ended with classic French-style apple tart topped with creamy vanilla ice cream and sprinkled with cinnamon.