Forests of austere elegance

 Italian brand Marni recently introduced its autumn and winter 2014 collection in a special press preview at the Oriental Residence, turning the tea room into a wintery forest complete with motifs of fallen trees on the glass walls.

Brand manager Navaporn Sukdheva emphasised the structural silhouettes and prints that resemble paintings as she showcased both Marni Edition and Runway collections.

The Edition series gives off an easygoing spirit with fun graphics and colliding prints, while the Runway look is more formal with the type of outfits you expect to see on the catwalk.

The new Marni collection is austere though it does boast a romantic edge. It plays with ideas of un-balanced balance: volume and flatness, severity and grace and opacity and shine. The protagonists are the precision of the lines, the assertiveness of the cuts and the density of the surfaces. They unfold and interact, creating an intangible narrative.

The silhouette is streamlined, to the knee or below, expressing an idea of romance with puritanical rigor. Volumes are exact and firm, flaring slightly from the waist down or falling straight. The body is both protected and offered in glimpses. 

Shorts bare legs under sculptural blousons while sleeveless coats and tops draw attention to the elongated delicacy of the arms. The masculine element is apparent and prevalent in the coats and jackets closed by zips as aviator attire, in the bonded leather jackets and cropped knife-pleat pants but is lightened up by transparent slices hidden inside the folds of pleated skirts. Leather tape details on dresses add toughness and little capes worn over long and short dresses add a graceful element.

“The large floral print coat matches the knee length skirts and clutch bags and Marni’s military jacket looks elegant with its fur collar,” says Navaporn. “The oversized jacket is very soft and warm with velvet inside and lamb leather.”

Fur is used profusely, as a graphic element or a colour accent, for example as a band on a skirt or a cape. Otherwise, it adds another layer of intricacy to the narrative weaving of textures with beaver, alpaca and long-haired shansi creating an organic storm that works as tactile contradiction.

“To take care of fur, just wipe off the dust; do not wash. And keep these items in a cloth bag only so the fur can breathe. Never cover fur with a plastic bag,” she adds. 

Prints are graphic yet atmospheric and the colour palette severe, with turbulent peaks of black, charcoal, deep blue and grey and touches of oily yellow and oxblood. Compact fabrics such as tweed, bonded velvet and leather, men's suiting wool, brushed mohair, felt, and crepe enhance the cuts: 

Pragmatic accessories offer a further off-kilter feel. They include calfskin or beaver riding boots; flat sandals and flats with metallic leather toes. Bags have an adventurous edge with the highlights being softly streamlined angular rucksacks with padlock closures, geometric duffels, folded bags in leather and fur or clutches in napa leather with crystal embroideries. Sunglasses conceal the eyes behind oversized round shapes.