Heaven can wait

FAMED THROUGHOUT Japan for its tofu and yuba (skin of soy milk), the busy restaurant chain Umenohana recently arrived in Bangkok and set up home on bustling Thonglor, a soi that’s known for its multicultural dining treats. 

Designed to resemble a traditional Japanese house complete with an artificial blossom plum tree at the entrance, Umenohana is decorated entirely with wood and partitioned with sliding doors made of warm wood and thick paper. Diners take off their shoes before entering and these are nearly arranged on a shelf marked with the table number.

There are two main dining areas, seating 24 and 18 customers respectively. For more intimate dining, five private rooms are also available, with the largest ideal for a party of 10. The interior fittings come directly from Japan and include tatami, a wooden ceiling and decorative paintings.

Umenohana was first established 37 years ago in Japan as Kanishige, a traditional Japanese fine dining specialising in kani ryori (crab dishes) in Fukuoka. Since 1986, the restaurant has become known for its yuba and tofu dishes. These are served in Kaiseki style, Japan’s haute cuisine tradition that sees a dramatic sequence of small but exquisitely prepared dishes arriving at the table and usually costs a small fortune. Today, the chain has some 70 branches across Japan and has come to Bangkok through a joint venture between Thailand’s S&P and Japan’s Umenohana.

The dishes are created with such attention to detail that every morsel has exactly the right balance of ingredients, flavours, textures and colours before being arranged on the artistic earthenware.

Four Kaiseki sets are available at prices ranging from Bt1,000 to Bt3,500. The signature 12-course Umeyu Zen set (Bt2,850) is recommended and starts with three small appetiser dishes. 

The first is a bouncy cube of Mineoka tofu – a delightful, creamy dish made from milk, fresh cream and arrowroot starch. Next up are Zuwai Kani Yuba Maki – crabmeat and asparagus wrapped with paper thin tofu skin – and Yubani – tofu skin dressed with wari shoyu and yuzu peel. 

Other dishes include Sashimi and Tofu Shumai dumpling made with minced chicken and shrimp enhanced by ponzu dipping sauce. 

The restaurant’s speciality Taraba (king crab) comes in a steaming basket on a portable gas stove and its flesh is firm, fresh and naturally sweet. Directly imported form Kyushu, Kuroge Wagyu – from the Japanese black haired cows – is juicy and tender and is served on hot lava stone with garlic butter and ponzu sauce. 

The culinary voyage continues with two sticks of Namafu Dengaku – deep-fried wheat gluten topped with flavourful miso paste. The yellow one is dressed with yuzu miso with a chewy texture similar to mochi and is best sampled first. The other stick is topped with herb minome miso paste made with fresh sansho leaves for a stronger taste. 

Another speciality is Zuwai or snow crab that is lightly boiled with ponzu then served cold with a zesty sauce . The set ends with Aka Miso Soup, Nigiri Sushi and a dessert of Mineoka tofu with fresh kiwi and papaya in syrup. 

Diners opting for the a la carte menu should order the Hikiage Yuba (Bt450) made from selected Japanese soy beans and which allows you to experience the preparation of your own tofu skin at the table. A skilled staff member heats a metal container of soy milk on a portable gas stove and then demonstrates how to skim the delicate skin with chopsticks before dressing it with wari shoyu and yuzu peel. It’s fun to try and you should be able to get about 10 silky-soft tofu skins to share with friends.

For a lighter dish, the Umenohana Salad (Bt280) offers fresh tofu, deep-fried tofu skin and mixed salad topped with crunchy fried shredded sweet potato and sesame dressing. 

The restaurant also offers lunch set, kid’s menu, sashimi and sushi. Advanced reservations are required.

 

 

Haute cuisine

>>> Umenohana is on the second floor of Nihonmura mall on Thonglor Soi 13.

>>> It’s open daily for lunch from 11am to 3pm, and for dinner, from 6 to 11. Call (084) 438 3892 or visit www.Umenohana.co.th.